Winnerl may be a newcomer yet this independent brand bears a verifiable name, that of a nineteenth century Austrian horologist, as of late resuscitated by an Austrian watchmaker, Bernhard Zwinz. In the wake of having worked for probably the best brands and with the absolute most regarded watchmakers, Zwinz currently fabricates watches in his own workshop, enlivened by the Winnerl heritage. We had the chance to visit him in the Vallée de Joux, to investigate his brilliantly high quality watches.
Joseph Thaddeus Winnerl (1799-1886) was a prominent Austrian-conceived and later Paris-based watchmaker. He is known for his boss chronometers – with a wide exhibit of uses, from the perception of heavenly bodies to exact boat’s chronometers – and for his work on the formation of various split-second chronograph systems.
This famous name was lying torpid until the name rights were ensured by Bernhard Zwinz. Like Winnerl, Zwinz is an Austrian-conceived watchmaker who emigrated to rehearse his art. In the wake of preparing as a watchmaker in Karlstein, he moved to Switzerland. There, he teamed up with Vacheron Constantin and Roger Dubuis prior to moving to Munich to work for Chronoswiss… to recuperate a touch of Germanness. However, you can’t avoid the alarms of French-speaking Switzerland excessively long. As proposed by Andreas Strehler, Zwinz turned into the main watchmaker to work for Philippe Dufour, creating large numbers of his Simplicity watches for three and a half years.
In 2004, after his experience with Monsieur Dufour, he ended up making his own company and workshop – L’Atelier de Joux – working behind the scene for the absolute most esteemed names in the business – Greubel-Forsey, La Joux-Perret, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F, Urban Jürgensen or H. Moser & Cie. to give some examples. Discussions with watch aficionados provoked him to restore the Winnerl name in 2018.
His first creation for Winnerl has been enlivened by the authentic boat chronometer N°80. The development of this rich three-hand watch was designed with a bizarre situation of the straightforwardly determined little seconds at 12 o’clock. This chronometer N°80 has an irregular equilibrium wheel edge which is inclined 45 degrees, taking into consideration a fine change of its inactivity. The design of the development includes a 3/4 plate – or rather a 4/5 plate as it takes the majority of the development’s measurement, save the equilibrium haggle openworked cockerel. Running at 18,000 vibrations/hour, the development has a 32-hour self-sufficiency when completely twisted – the force hold for upcoming watches has been augmented to a more comfortable 49 hours.
The whole watch is amazingly handmade. Obvious through the presentation caseback, the smooth development is flawlessly gotten done with wonderfully cleaned slopes and gem sinks, just as fine monochrome dim hand-completed, untreated German silver surfaces.
Bernhard Zwinz’s parts are totally hand tailored. Each watch requires no less than 400 hours of work. What’s more, for the development as well as for the dial. For his own watch, the dial is made utilizing the grenage strategy, physically scouring a combination of silver powder and other fixings onto its clear surface. The engravings are not moved onto the dial. The dial is engraved and all signs are loaded up with dark polish. The hands are cut, cleaned, sloped and thermally-blued altogether by hand.
This excellent three-hander is introduced in an exquisite 39.90mm x 10.30mm case that was considered to be comfortable for regular wear. Specifically, it is water-impervious to 100 meters and highlights a screw-down bezel and screw-down caseback. The lovely chamfer on the drag aspects is additionally a decent touch.
The model envisioned in this article is the reference N°595 (Winnerl initially made exactly 550 pieces). The following three watches, the Founder’s Series, are really taking shape. These have been purchased by a solitary authority. The N°596 comes in white gold with a blue-gold dial, the N°597 in red gold with a white lacquer dial and the N°598 in platinum with a dark veneer dial. Zwinz as of late reported a restricted Series Tremblage comprising 6 pieces (N°601 to 606) with 18k white gold case and 18k pink gold dial created utilizing the tremblage (hand-pounding with a little burin) strategy. This makes haphazardly positioned little indentations and miniature cuts in the dial’s surface. These will sell for CHF 65,000 (excl. charges). For more data and orders, if it’s not too much trouble, visit winnerl.ch