The prevalence of microbrands is quickly spreading and exceptional mechanical watches are being sold at vicious costs. A fascinating piece can be had for well under USD 500, however chances are you’ll be getting a Chinese development and parts that are far eliminated from Switzerland. That doesn’t imply that a significant number of these watches are awful items, however from both a dependability and collector’s stance, they’re often viewed as a lower level. UNDONE is a well known microbrand that stands apart from the group with its customisation choices. Shadings, cases, dials, hands, lashes and even materials can be independently picked to make a one of a kind watch only for you, for under USD 500. A considerable lot of its watches are alluring chronographs – outfitted with quartz developments rather than mechanical ones. Their Aqua arrangement of dive watches, be that as it may, have demonstrated Seiko automatics inside and are an incredible incentive for sprouting fans or dynamic divers. Dive watches are among my number one styles and the degree of customisation offered by UNDONE is practically overpowering. Standard releases are additionally accessible in case you’re content with their determination of pre-assembled models. I have their pre-fabricated Aqua Silver-Gray unit (with date) that I’ve been wearing for a few weeks.
UNDONE was established by Michael Young in 2014 with the objective of offering moderate, customisable watches without subjective markups. As Young puts it, “All top originator names were once little, store in size.” He accepts that extravagance is about items being customized, not just stepped with a brand’s logo. Significant tasks are situated in Hong Kong and all gathering is completed in-house. Innovative work, and component fabricating are likewise completed inside the office with generally small being reevaluated, like developments and gems. And keeping in mind that Hong Kong doesn’t sound as impressive as Switzerland, Germany or France, the commitment to its items and in-house tasks are appreciable.
UNDONE offers two unmistakable watch styles, the Urban/Mystique chronographs with quartz (mixture) developments and the mechanical Aqua Divers. There are over twelve norm, pre-constructed Aqua models to browse, including military and synergistic styles, yet full customisation takes into account an apparently limitless measure of combinations. You can pick a cleaned hardened steel case or from a wide scope of either PVD or Cerakote (polymer-fired) coatings. The bezel can either be glass or fired, there are more than two dozen dial choices with or without date, more than 30 hand combinations, etc. The development even considers a white or dark date show. My recommendation is to construct a few models and afterward pick your general top choice, and don’t be in a surge. However, for the present, how about we investigate this silver-dim Aqua diver.
Case and Design
The tempered steel case has a 45mm width and is 15mm in tallness, which is regular for a diver (if not somewhat thick) and wears less than the measurement recommends. The crown monitor is strengthened to the point that it in a real sense takes up the whole right half of the case. The current unit has a cleaned finish on the sides and a brushed top with an unpretentious chamfer around the top edges.
The unidirectional pivoting bezel (with a 15-minute definite scale) is produced using K1 glass with a full covering of Super-LumiNova on the underside, looking like a fluorescent cylinder when gleaming in its somewhat blue green tone. It’s cutting edge, cool and splendid, and doesn’t take a lot to make it shine. This arrangement isn’t simply ideal to take a gander at yet in addition productive in plunging conditions.
If there’s a disadvantage to the case, it’s the weight. The Aqua is fabricated like a tank and you feel that on your wrist. The screw-down crown isn’t knurled like the greater part, but instead a smooth octagon that an attachment wrench could be fitted to. It works with the manly esthetic. The caseback is brushed hardened steel and takes into consideration a 300m profundity rating. A show caseback is additionally accessible however the profundity rating drops to 200m. The gem is sapphire with an enemy of intelligent covering and highlights a cyclops focal point over the date – non-cyclops precious stones are likewise an alternative. The general look helps me to remember a vintage climatic plunging suit. It’s thick, weighty and mechanical, and is simply asking to be lowered in your number one plunging spot.
The heart of the Aqua is definitely not a Chinese Seagull or something like that, however a demonstrated Seiko NH35A type automatic. It has 24 gems, beats at 21,600vph (3Hz), has stun obstruction for the equilibrium staff, hacking seconds and a 40-hour power save. Capacities incorporate hours, minutes, focal seconds and a date.
The 21,600vph recurrence is common for Japanese developments (rather than 28,800vph), yet the Seiko NH35A is dependable, useful and generally modest for microbrands to keep by and large costs competitive. Precision falls inside 20 to 40 seconds out of each day, yet I discovered my unit to run around 18 seconds quick each day. With the show caseback, the development is undecorated however again fits the mechanical aesthetic.
Dials and Hands
The dial on my Aqua is matte dim with white records and numerals (12, 6 and 9) loaded up with Super-LumiNova. The external band of white seconds records doesn’t have lume. A large group of dial combinations can be picked, with various lume tones, date or no date, with or without numerals, and so forth The hour and moment hands are of the Mercedes style (like a Rolex Sub) and plongeur hands are additionally accessible (You can peruse more about the most common watch delivers our Hands of Time article).
The hours and minutes hands have Super-LumiNova, yet not the focal seconds hand. Everything gleams in similar somewhat blue green, however various dials and bezels with different lume shadings can be picked. As I said previously, the prospects are endless.
The tie on mine is a calf-orange Italian leather with cream sewing. It has a brushed treated steel clasp with UNDONE’s name and logo stepped. The drag width is 22mm and the tie has snappy delivery switches that are consistently appreciated.
As is the theme with this watch, different lashes are accessible. You can get Cordura texture, Chromexcel leather, calfskin and elastic, and most outsider ties can be fitted too. Shockingly, UNDONE doesn’t have a steel arm band alternative. For generally divers, the elastic or Cordura lashes will likely work best.
I as of late reviewed the Farer Endeavor dive watch from another youthful brand that forms their watches in Switzerland with high-grade ETA developments. UNDONE falls somewhere close to Farer and microbrands like Mercer Watch Co. that utilization Chinese Seagull developments. I think the best center ground for microbrands is to go with Japanese developments from Seiko or Miyota, which are demonstrated workhorses, cheap and promptly accessible. UNDONE hits this center ground well with Seiko types and reasonable costs. You will not confuse an UNDONE Aqua with an Omega or TAG Heuer, however the put-togetherness is noteworthy at the cost, customisation is unending and purchasers are probably going to get many years of dependable utilization from one.
The Aqua dive watches start at USD 475 and can move to USD 605 relying upon the design. Those are reasonable costs for what you’re getting, particularly thinking about the expansiveness of customisation. You can locate a pre-constructed model or plan your own at UNDONE’s site . They offer a one-year guarantee on developments and 14-day return window.