For the SIHH 2018, Laurent Ferrier had a considerable amount of oddities at his disposal and his most recent watch includes another development and a phenomenal complication for the brand: an annual calendar. Housed in the smooth, round Montre Ecole (School Piece) case, the Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar previously intrigued us just by looking at photographs … And then came the astonishment of Ferrier’s new development housed in an extraordinary looking new gold composite. Unmistakably, perhaps the most rich and alluring watches of the SIHH 2018.
Maybe you’ve as of now had a look of this new Galet Annual Calendar School Piece because of our live inclusion of the Geneva Watch Fair, when we plunked down with Vanessa Monestel, CEO of the brand, to talk about the 2018 assortment , or when our organizer Frank Geelen showed his squash on this watch in our “Best of Show” video. Now it’s time to see this watch in full goal and jump into subtleties. Not simply another watch in the assortment, this Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar addresses a gigantic advance forward for the brand – recollect that LF is a little autonomous brand and accordingly can’t bear to make completely new watches each year.
An annual calendar complication
As said, this Galet Annual Calendar is totally new, except for its case – or possibly the state of its case. All the rest – development, materials, complications, show – is new and basically wonderful. Above all else, Laurent Ferrier has built up another complication, an annual calendar. Why an annual calendar? Why not a complete calendar or an unending calendar? Indeed, in the expressions of Laurent himself – and we completely concur with him here – the annual calendar addresses the best compromise between the excellence of a complex instrument, the common sense of not changing a watch, the security during changes and the effortlessness of assembly.
In the setting of the Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar School Piece, we have a combination of a traditional format, suggestive of the 1940s full calendar watches (windows at 12 o’clock and date demonstrated by hand on the fringe) with the cutting edge and specialized methodology brought by the annual calendar. In addition to the fact that this is annual calendar precisely fulfilling and pragmatic consistently (with just a single change a year required) however it is likewise effectively thought out. All activities are finished by the crown or on account of a solitary pusher (at 10 o’clock). No appalling recessed pushers for the situation band here. The easy to understand instrument considers setting the times of the week by essentially pressing the catch at 10 o’clock, while the other changes are made by pulling and turning the crown, with a quick change of the date with the focal hand. By turning the crown advances and in reverse, the month is naturally refreshed. Basic and safe.
A unblemished, vintage design
The show is charming, clean and entirely adjusted. All signs are adjusted on the 12-to-6 pivot, a conventional style for calendar watches, which consummately befits the vintage and exemplary look of Laurent Ferrier watches. However, the style has somewhat developed here, with the expansion of reliefs and shadings. The day and month windows are outlined by huge, chamfered gaps and the date is shown by a splendid red hand with blue numerals on the fringe. Nothing excessively noisy in any case and a decent development of LF’s design.
The Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar School Piece stays consistent with the “Montre Ecole” assortment, with its round focal case with straight carries. The “bassiné” case, brimming with bends and arched surfaces, is illuminated by two brushed lines on the sides. The equivalent goes for the carries, with cabochons on the tips. The dial additionally stays dedicated to the other watches of the Montre Ecole assortment, with a silver-conditioned foundation and the combination of a vertically brushed focal region and a round brushed hour ring. As usual, this dial is brimming with subtleties, energetic and plays with encompassing light. Time is shown by the wonderfully completed Assegai-molded hands.
A new “pale” yellow gold case
For this Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar School Piece (a restricted release of 50 pieces), gatherers will have the decision between a few materials, including steel and white gold. However, the most striking rendition and a curiosity in the assortment is the yellow gold edition… But no sort of yellow gold. With regards to gold tones, marks ordinarily depend on 2N (yellow), 4N (pink) or 5N (red). This Galet Annual Calendar presents another “pale” or “sand” gold, which expects to review vintage combinations – old fashioned golds or 1N gold. To accomplish a paler tone, the compound requirements to contain a bigger extent of white metals (for this situation, palladium). Notwithstanding, it should hold its 18-carat terminology, which means at least 75% strong gold. Generally, pale yellow 1N gold compounds are 14-carat. The composite utilized by Laurent Ferrier could well be viewed as such a 1.5N gold, while as yet being 18k.
In the metal, this new gold combination has a magnificent tone, exquisite and subtler than a large portion of the cutting edge yellow gold composites utilized these days – which are moderately splendid and glossy. This adds to the novel appeal of this watch and to the vintage request accomplished by the showcase, the state of the case and the two-tone dial. On the off chance that other forms of this Galet Annual Calendar School Piece are engaging, our most loved is certainly this pale/sand gold rendition. On the wrist, the 40mm case is very much estimated, regardless of whether the extra annual calendar complication suggests a thicker 12.80mm case, which is nevertheless even and doesn’t feel too prominent.
A new in-house movement
Last however not least, this Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar comes with a fresh out of the plastic new development – the 5th in-house type of the brand, after the Tourbillon Double Hairspring , the Natural Escapement Micro-Rotor , the Micro-Rotor Dual-Time and the School Regulator . At the point when we say new, it is for sure unique in relation to the wide range of various developments, both as far as enrichment and specialized arrangements. The base remaining parts very near the tourbillon – for the energy stockpiling and transmission – yet with a completely new managing organ.
The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece depends on a hand-twisted development with a conventional Swiss Lever Escapement – no twofold hairspring tourbillon or characteristic escapement with silicon wheels here, simply an old fashioned escapement with metallic parts and a screwed balance. Laurent Ferrier has purposely decided to utilize a more norm and dependable answer for the guideline and to zero in on the calendar capacities all things being equal. The development accumulates to 80 hours of force save and highlights a “power save territory indicator” on the converse side (obvious on the round wheel over the equilibrium wheel). It is fitted with a long “edge” click ratchet, a specialized element suggestive of pocket watches and known for its lovely “winding feel”.
The improvement of this calibre LF126.01 is additionally not the same as what the brand used to do in the past – which doesn’t mean it is finished with less meticulousness. The scaffolds, decorated with huge and hand-applied Geneva stripes, are presently plated with dull ruthenium, offering an extraordinary difference with the steel and metal parts, just as with the gold shade of the case. As usual, the extensions have sublime hand-cleaned chamfers and gem sinks, just as sharp points. By and large, the development of the Galet Annual Calendar looks more specialized, more current, yet not less pleasant.
All in all, Laurent Ferrier makes another profoundly conventional, exceptionally rich and exceptionally attractive piece with this Galet Annual Calendar School Piece. Whether we talk style or mechanics, this watch checks all the crates. At CHF 55,000, it isn’t what could be viewed as a reasonable watch, yet looking at the three-hand School Piece dressed in gold and its tempered steel kin valued at CHF 45,000, this annual calendar could nearly feel like a competitive offer. Certainly, perhaps the best amazement of this SIHH 2018.
More subtleties on laurentferrier.ch .