At the SIHH 2018, Vacheron Constantin presented a fresh out of the plastic new and significant assortment for the brand, the FIFTYSIX . With a reasonable goal to reestablish the client base and to bring more youthful and less bad-to-the-bone arranged expected clients, this watch blended vintage components in with an advanced, manly and somewhat easygoing plan. Introduced in 3 distinctive variant (automatic, day-date, complete schedule ), every one of them accessible in steel or gold, it’s time now for the FIFTYSIX to up the game and to get genuine Vacheron Constantin savoir-faire. This has quite recently been finished with the expansion of a top of the line, automatic fringe tourbillon movement.
Background – the FIFTYSIX collection
In our survey of the complete schedule rendition , we clarified why we had been wary about this new assortment. It was more an issue of “wrong first impressions” in light of 3D renderings of the watch and a somewhat “hipster” communication crusade, rather than an issue with the actual watch. Positively, this assortment isn’t awesome and could be consummated on some minor subtleties (a piece thinner…) yet in general, it is one exceptionally charming watch – or 3 extremely wonderful watches. We tried it and we loved it. Period.
What is FIFTYSIX collection about? Indeed, to put it plainly, a broadening program for Vacheron Constantin – an approach to draw in new clients, more youthful authorities and a more “lifestyle-oriented” client base. How to do it? In the first place, play on the vintage pattern with a watch propelled by the ref. 6073 delivered in 1956 and with a dial playing on the “sector” pattern. Blend this in with current extents, an easygoing style, automatic, solid and helpful developments, rather straightforward complications (day-date or complete schedule) and chiefly, offer the watch in tempered steel – so the automatic variant can retail for simply under EUR 10,000 preceding taxes.
So now, we move to the flip side of the range with the expansion of a tourbillon. Does that sound in accordance with the past system? Not completely, nonetheless, it must be viewed as a lead model rather than a “cash cow” item. All things considered, Vacheron Constantin is one hell of an assembling and the tourbillon complication is one of its specialities.
The new Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon
The development from a straightforward automatic watch to a complex tourbillon piece is rather prudent. By and large, it’s a similar watch with an alternate development. Accordingly, the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon is as yet a FIFTYSIX all around.
First change compared to the Automatic version concerns the size of the case, that bounces from 40mm to 41mm, to make some space for the huge development and for the tourbillon on the dial side. Not an issue, the increment in size will absolutely be just about subtle once on the wrist. The shape is the one utilized on the remainder of the assortment, with an uncommonly molded case with coordinated drags, straight flanks, a marginally recessed crown and, something that is the standard at VC, wonderfully planned lugs.
The configuration is equivalent to the other versions: a fascinating blend of tastefulness with a trace of easygoing quality, an even mix of vintage components (box-formed sapphire precious stone, carries suggestive of a 1956 model) and present day extents. The case is very compact and generally dainty at 10.9mm. The state of the between hauls is charming and impeccably incorporates the lash into the entire plan. This tourbillon form of FIFTYSIX is dispatched in 18k pink gold just – at any rate for the moment.
As for the dial, no sensational advancement either. This tourbillon variant remaining parts in accordance with what we’ve experienced in the past – with the expansion of a huge opening in the dial and a tourbillon inside, obviously. We have the pleasantly completed two-tone dial, with a focal opaline (matte) silvered surface and an hour ring that is brushed. The dial is vivacious and simple to peruse, with consummately dimensioned tracks and hands and very much organized regions. Hands and records are largely 18k cleaned pink gold and loaded up with radiant material – once more, to carry a somewhat more easygoing look to the watch and greater common sense on a day by day basis.
The enormous opening at 6 o’clock on the dial uncovers a completely completed tourbillon scaffold and enclosure. Of course, the tourbillon is held set up by a dark cleaned cross-over extension, with an adjusted surface (a tedious part to finish) and a pen looking like a Maltese Cross, likewise dark cleaned with various sharp, inner points that must be finished by hand.
Powering the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon is a notable development, type 2160 – this development was at that point utilized in the Traditionnelle assortment . Following the possibility of “daily usability” of the assortment, the development is automatic, however not just automatic. It includes a complex strong gold fringe rotor, which takes into account a cleaned up perspective on the development and a more slender profile. This type 2160 beats at a conventional 2.5Hz recurrence – standard for a tourbillon – and flaunts a comfortable 80-hour power reserve.
The see through the caseback is exceptionally fulfilling, with excellent completing and itemized adornment – cleaned slopes, inside anglages, slender Geneva stripes, cleaned screw heads and sinks… The development and the whole watch are confirmed by the Hallmark of Geneva, which ensures an undeniable degree of exactness and the principles for the improvement of the movement.
Altogether, the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX Tourbillon stays in accordance with the remainder of the assortment and depends on the cool plan credits of this new watch. It simply adds an entrancing tourbillon development, in the vein of what VC can do. The cost is, obviously, more extreme than the remainder of the assortment, at EUR 118,000. It will be a shop just version. More subtleties at vacheron-constantin.com .