Since its overall presentation in 2016, the Seiko Presage assortment has never stopped to dazzle. Everything began with heavenly restricted version chronographs with finish or hand-lacquered Urushi dials (just that…), watches that were trailed by normal creation models with veneer dials or astounding “cocktail” motivation , just as great restricted releases like the Shippo . In two years, Seiko has made Presage an assortment as fascinating as Prospex. Following this pattern, today the brand uncovers another restricted version, the Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri SPB085 – and indeed, it offers conventional, hand-made Urushi at a staggering cost level.
The idea of the Seiko Presage assortment was obviously characterized in 2016 when Seiko chose to dispatch this assortment overall – it was already a Japan-just assortment. Notwithstanding, since the dispatch of Presage, the goals are clear: compete with Swiss watchmaking, not just regarding style – with exemplary, exquisite watches – yet additionally as far as craftsmanship… And that’s where Seiko realizes how to have the effect! We realized that the Japanese brand was fit for creating lovely mechanical developments at available costs. With Presage, it applies similar idea to the dials, with customary procedures: polish, Urushi finish or guilloché with clear veneer are accessible at a negligible portion of the cost asked by Swiss brands. The new Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri SPB085 we’re introducing today is another showing of savoir-faire, again at an incredible cost (however in a restricted run).
The hand-lacquered dial
The primary concern of interest with the new ref. SPB085 is its dial. For the rest, this watch will be natural to you as it was at that point accessible (with a comparative presentation) with a white veneer dial and a blue Shippo polish dial . No surprises in terms of mechanics or case either, the entirety of that will be natural to most watch aficionados. What’s going on, be that as it may, is the expansion of a Urushi dial – and a solitary tone Urushi lacquered one, however another three-tone adaptation, made with three distinct methods named Urushi, Byakudan-nuri, and Maki-e.
The dial of the Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri portrays the rich tones of the sky and moon not long before day break: a totally dark sky, red accents where the sun contacts and brilliant tones for the Moon. Accomplishing these three tones requires three distinct techniques, done in the studio of Urushi ace Isshu Tamura.
While an ordinary Urushi dial previously made it to the Presage assortment with the reference SRQ021 (the 60th-commemoration Chronograph dispatched in 2016), the new SPB085 is driving the idea a lot further with not one but rather three distinct procedures. In the first place, the base of the dial is made with a traditional Urushi procedure, in which dark black finish is painted by hand onto the metal base of the dial, dried and afterward cleaned. The interaction is rehashed a few times until arriving at a completely dark tone and a smooth, faultless completion. The outcome is a profound (truly profound) dark dial with practically no reflections and a rich colour.
Step 2 is the recently used Byakudan-nuri lacquer. Using another layer of Urushi as the limiting specialist, the sub-dials are then sprinkled with a layer of extremely fine metallic powder. The entire dial is then over and over painted with a red-touched hazy Urushi veneer and afterward each new layer is dried and cleaned for however many occasions as the skilled worker considers significant. The outcome is a profound, red shading which fluctuates in tone contingent upon the surrounding light – from dull burgundy to blood-like red with orange reflections.
The last advance is the formation of the force save check, depicting the Moon, using Maki-e procedure. The sickle is first covered with a layer of Urushi enamel that goes about as the cement to the fine, overlaid shaded powder that is then applied to it. When the powder is on the dial, the expert delicately taps it to scatter the powder uniformly across the surface and afterward utilizes his own extraordinarily picked material to consummate the surface. The outcome is a pointer that not just mirrors the state of the bow Moon however has the Moon’s gleaming, granular surface and differentiations with the perfection of the sky.
This complex interaction, which requires half a month of craftsmanship, brings about a rich, extravagant and remarkable dial – it feels genuinely one of a kind and like nothing else found available. The scrupulousness is noteworthy, particularly while thinking about the cost of the SPB085.
The Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri SPB085
Regarding the remainder of the watch, as referenced, there are no significant shocks. The case and developments are recognizable and looked into a few times on MONOCHROME. What we have is a pleasantly molded and exquisite 40.5mm case in tempered steel with cleaned and glossy silk completed surfaces (on top of the wound hauls) and a meager bezel to have the emphasis on the dial. The case, similarly as with other Presage versions, is pleasantly made yet could be somewhat more slender – it is 12.8mm in stature and we could live with a couple of millimeters less. The watch will then acquire in class. Yet, that’s a minor flaw.
Completing the hand-lacquered dial are white printed Roman numerals and engravings – indistinguishable from the majority of the Presage watches – and hand-shaded leaf hands for the hours and minutes. A decent detail is the brilliant Moon on the stabilizer of the second hand – something previously found before, on the Blue Enamel SPB069 . The presentation of the Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri SPB085 is somewhat more complex than what we’ve found before. Typically including focal H-M-S, a force hold, and a date-by-hand, Seiko adds a day-of-the-week sign at 3 o’clock.
Powering the SPB085 is a similar base development as any remaining Presage watches, which means oneself winding type 6R21. Offering its particulars to the remainder of the 6Rxx family – 4Hz recurrence, 45-hour power hold – it is an exceptionally respectable programmed development with a dependable development. It is in part embellished, with Geneva stripes on the rotor and straight brushed bridges.
Price and availability
Knowing the complex assembling measure for the dial, the Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri SPB085 will be delivered in a restricted run of 2,000 watches. It will be accessible as of early December 2018 in chose Seiko outlets around the world (we even urge you to go now to a retailer and pre-request it if possible…). It will be evaluated at EUR 2,500, which isn’t in essence an open cost yet considering the craftsmanship utilized for the dials, it is again staggering an incentive for the cash. More subtleties on www.seikowatches.com .