The Tonneau Watch via Cartier consistently had an uncommon spot among authorities. Surely less popular than other formed watches planned by the Parisian Maison (Tortue, Crash, Tank, Santos, Drive, Ballon Bleu, and some more), it stays quite possibly the most unique and unquestionably perhaps the most rich manifestations at any point executed via Cartier. Because of the Revival of the “Privé” marking, with the reevaluation of the Crash in 2015 and the Tank Cintrée in 2017, we see the arrival of those lovely shapes watches in the brand’s portfolio. For the SIHH 2019, the Tonneau Watch is organizing a comeback.
The Cartier Tonneau, An Icon brought into the world in 1906
The Cartier Tonneau is perhaps the soonest wristwatch made via Cartier. Just a short time after the presentation of the Santos (made by Louis Cartier in 1904 for his companion Santos-Dumont), Cartier again tested the idea of the round pocket watch with one more molded wristwatch. The actual name, “Tonneau”, alludes to the state of the watch, as this interesting French word implies “barrel” – around then, promoting gatherings were likely less difficult than today…
Interestingly, the barrel or tonneau shape turned out to be moderately en vogue during the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s, when most watches were planned after the standards of Art Deco. However, Cartier was by one way or another a forerunner with the Tonneau Watch. Extended, meager, bended (the case isn’t flat but genuinely follows the ebb and flow of the wrist), it was the appropriate meaning of the dandy’s watch. The history of Cartier shows that the Tonneau is the second most established wristwatch model – however that doesn’t mean the second most elegant.
With its extended and smooth profile, just as its shockingly slight tie, this watch might have been viewed as a lady’s piece by a few. Nonetheless, when Cartier chose to bring it back, no questions were conceivable any longer. Profiting by the quality of the CPCP collection, which resuscitated the majority of Cartier’s notable molded watches during the 1990s and 2000s, the Tonneau would be relaunched for its 100th commemoration in 2006, with restricted version pieces in contemporary sizes.
Above: in 2006, to praise the 100th commemoration of the model, Cartier dispatched two renditions of this watch under the CPCP (Collection Privée Cartier Paris). One of these watches was the hand-wound time-only Cartier Tonneau XL and the other was the Cartier Tonneau XL Two Time Zone.
Both 2006 watches were amazingly devoted to the first 1906 idea, anyway showing the typical qualities of the CPCP collection – dark Roman numerals, blued hands (blade hands or ‘Breguet’ hands) and, obviously, the gleaming white guilloché “Rose Motif” dial and “Paris” engraving. While the time-just model remaining parts amazingly straightforward regarding mechanics, the Tonneau XL Two Time Zone was somewhat more complex and coordinated not one but rather two little hand-wound Piguet developments (implying that each time region is altogether free of the other).
These two watches have by one way or another roused what is the 2019 Tonneau Watch collection you’re going to find, in any case, Cartier has chosen to keep simply the notorious highlights and to bring a slight portion of advancement for the SIHH 2019 watches, dispatched under the selective Cartier Privé sub-brand.
The 2019 Cartier Tonneau Watch Large Hand-Wound
Among the two “Cartier Privé” watches dispatched for 2019, the first is the most reliable reevaluation of the first 1906 model. Named the Cartier Tonneau Watch Large Model, it is, much the same as its predecessor, a period in particular, hand-twisted piece with an undisputable elegance.
Most of the famous highlights of the 1906 and 2006 models are as yet present in the 2019 model, specifically, the first barrel-shape. This watch is an exhibition of savoir-faire from Cartier, which aces the utilization of curved and sunken shapes here. The case is barrel-molded in an even manner as well as an afterthought. Both the dial side (bezel and precious stone) and the caseback are bended – yet not with the very spiral (that would be excessively basic). The case measures now 46.1mm x 26.2mm, which remains moderately little considering current principles for men’s watches.
The extents are as yet unchanged: a thin case, a stretched profile (and meager as well, at 8.8mm) and still this obsolete, marginally ornate yet quite rich thin leather lash – which gives all its appeal to this watch. The hauls are as yet enhanced with screws and the crown includes a sapphire or ruby cabochon. Two renditions are introduced, one in rose gold and one in platinum.
The dial is positively the fundamental update on this 2019 Cartier Privé Tonneau. Gone is the shimmering white dial with guilloché design and rather the watch includes a dark or champagne-shaded, sunburst dial with applied and cleaned Roman numerals (along these lines a last year’s Tank Cintrée). The style is more present day yet completely Cartier.
Powering this watch is a hand-wound production development (Caliber 1917 MC), a formed development (16mm x 12.9mm, with a flimsy 2.9mm profile) that flaunts a 38h force save and shows the hours and minutes.
While the Platinum model is a restricted creation of 100 pieces, the other pink gold release will be offered as a standard watch. Costs (subject to change) will be USD 22,400 (rose gold) and USD 26,200 (platinum).
The 2019 Cartier Tonneau Watch Extra-Large Skeleton Dual-Time
The second watch to be presented as a component of this SIHH 2019 Cartier Privé collection is an advanced and specialized interpretation of the symbolic Daum-Time model dispatched in 2006. Notwithstanding, not any more double development here, not any more plain guilloché dial and not any more customary plan. The new 2019 Cartier Tonneau Watch Extra-Large Skeleton Dual-Time is very good quality watchmaking and 21st century-infused.
Before we see what truly is the masterpiece of this watch (spoiler: its development), we should take a gander at what hasn’t changed, and what really makes it heavenly; its case and shape. Much the same as the time-just model over, the case is twofold bended and reconsiders the exemplary barrel-state of the Tonneau Watch. Notwithstanding, we have a somewhat more precise case here, with more manly measurements – measuring 52.4mm x 29.8mm and 11.9mm in stature (expect a rather long watch on the wrist).
Other notable highlights, like the twofold crown with cabochons with sapphire stones, the screws on the hauls or the extra-thin leather lash are as yet present. One of the specificities of the first Dual-Time model was to include two autonomous developments – and that was plainly a simple arrangement thinking about the absence of room and the ebb and flow of the case, to get two diverse time-regions in such a watch.
The 2019 Cartier Tonneau Watch Extra-Large Skeleton Dual-Time doesn’t take easy routes with regards to the mechanics. While the watch actually shows double cross zones, it presently comes from one single movement. However, considering the state of the Tonneau Watch, this wasn’t simple. To hold the case’s lengthened structure, all the wheels of the stuff train must be adjusted somewhere in the range of 12 and 6 o’clock. Then the state of the development went through alteration, being made to bend so it fits inside the bended profile of the Tonneau Watch. The stuff train highlights calculated cutting on its barrel and escapement wheel. The whole development accordingly follows the shape of the watch.
Finally, to make it considerably more Cartier, the skeletonized contact has been applied in this Tonneau Watch Extra-Large Skeleton Dual-Time. All the scaffolds follow the state of the case and furthermore assume a part in the presentation making two separate sub-dials to recognize the home time from the nearby time. This development, hand-twisted by the crown at 2 o’clock, flaunts a 60h force save and beats at 4Hz. The subsequent time region is changed by pushing on the crown at 4 o’clock and by one-hour jumps.
Two versions of the 2019 Cartier Tonneau Watch Extra-Large Skeleton Dual-Time will be officially presented at the SIHH, one in rose gold (USD 68,500) and one in platinum (USD 78,500). Both are restricted to 100 pieces. More subtleties at www.cartier.com .