Best Watches Reviews

Social Navigation

The Black DLC “Dirty Dozen” Watch, the Vertex M100B

The Black DLC “Dirty Dozen” Watch, the Vertex M100B


Vertex is a stand-out brand, restored from the past , presently ready to take on the world with some lovely cool toolish, military-propelled watches – and plainly, they are more than real in this field! With a strong “Dirty Dozen” foundation behind these watches, the advanced pieces done by Vertex need to be prepared for action… And the brand’s most recent piece is no exemption for the standard. Meet the all-black, secrecy looking Vertex M100B Black DLC.

The “Dirty Dozen” Connection

Re-joined 100 years after the company’s creation by the founder’s extraordinary grandson, Vertex and its military-propelled watches are moving quick, with now two models in the assortment – the 3-hand, present day understanding of the MoD watches and the Monopusher Chronograph MP45 we previously looked into . Yet, when talking Vertex, you need to remember that these watches don’t come unexpectedly and bear a valid, genuine pedigree.

Established in London in 1916 by Claude Lyons as Vertex Watches Ltd, the company is apparently most popular for being the solitary British individual from the Dirty Dozen. Creating watches for both military and regular citizen use, Vertex was situated in Hatton Garden, London’s notable watch and gems territory, for right around fifty years. In the same way as other makers, The company hit difficult situations in the mid 1970s with the Quartz emergency. In the wake of lying torpid for more than 40 years, a man of his word by the name of Don Cochrane – who turns out to be the incredible grandson of the first organizer – reincorporated the company in 2016.

When restoring the brand, Don Cochrane utilized the prerequisites set out by the British Ministry Of Defense (MoD) for what might become the Dirty Dozen as the reason for the new watches. Basically, the Dirty Dozen is a bunch of military watches – known as WWW’s (Watch, Wrist, Waterproof) – that were made for the British Military under the support of the MoD, during World War II. “Dozen” alludes to the 12 individual models made by the 12 picked companies: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex.

The essential necessities for these watches were: Black dial with Arabic numerals, auxiliary seconds at 6 o’clock and railroad-style minutes, brilliant hands, hand-twisted developments with 15 gems, shatterproof Perspex gem, waterproof to the guidelines of the time, exactness developments that must be directed to chronometer standards and a rough case, equipped for reducing the effect of stuns. This brought forth 12 watches, which clearly look all equivalent. Following this commission, Vertex, working with four Swiss processing plants, started delivering the Cal 59 Nav watch in 1944. Altogether, around 150,000 W.W.W’s were provided to the British military by the Dirty Dozen between May 1945 to December 1945, of which Vertex contributed roughly 15,000 pieces.

When resuscitating the brand, Don Cochrane ( as he clarified in our new meeting ) decided to utilize these prerequisites just as the vintage Vertex watches to make a cutting edge understanding – not an appropriate re-issue, but rather all the more a cool, toolish and strong watch evoking the Dirty Dozen. Furthermore, after the debut (and fruitful) steel form, the M100 comes back in a second, black edition.

The Vertex M100B Black DLC

The essentials of the Vertex M100 have been kept buzzing with this new model – which is again conveyed as a restricted release. Accordingly, the essential thought of a toolish, hearty, utilitarian watch is as yet present, with a straightforward methodology of watchmaking: a pleasantly planned, very much assembled, exceptional piece that basically looks great and loaded with decent subtleties and vintage references.

The instance of the Vertex M100B estimates 40mm in width – a slight increment compared to the old Vertex WWW, however then again we’re talking translation and no re-release – yet keeps it sensible. The treated steel parts are completely brushed and, for this release, the case, caseback and crown have been covered with Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC), offering a very hard-wearing covering – more impervious to scratches than PVD for example, which suits the idea driving this watch. Unmistakably, the combination of this black case with the military dial and motivation is completely applicable here.

Talking dial, we find here a similar modernized military dial as the Vertex M100. While the general plan is suggestive of the WWW watches requested by the MoD, Vertex has decided to add some cool and contemporary components. While one of the necessities was to give exceptionally differentiated and brilliant dials, Vertex changes the painted Arabic numerals for raised, 3D-like plots for the hour markers (the numerals have some extraordinary profundity), something that gives this M100B a remarkable character. The rest feels absolutely military-enlivened, like the railroad minute track, the glowing needle hands or the bolt at 12 o’clock.

Powering this Vertex M100B is the pervasive ETA 7001, a hand-wound, 17-gem development with a hearty origination, running at 3Hz and flaunting a 45-hour power hold. The development has the bit of leeway to stay close based on what was found in the Dirty Dozen watches, with its little seconds at 6 o’clock and its shortfall of date. The development, gotten done with Geneva stripes and Rhodium-plated, is taken cover behind a plain caseback – to guarantee a 100m water resistance.

Price and availability

The Vertex M100B is conveyed in a Peli case containing 3 lashes: a black elastic tie, a red NATO material tie and a black NATO material tie (both with DLC-covered hardware).

The watch will be delivered in just 150 pieces (destined to be sold out) at a cost of GBP 2,624.40 (incl. UK charges). Orders should be possible straightforwardly from the brand’s site, .