Having given the Santos new wings in 2018, Cartier grows the top of the line men’s assortment in 2019 with the expansion of a chronograph. Thicker, wider and boundlessly sportier, the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph has discovered an exquisite answer for supplant the exemplary two-pusher chronograph design with an adjusted variant of its programmed 1904-CH MC type. Introduced in three variants – strong 18k pink gold, steel and yellow gold bezel, and steel with a dark ADLC bezel – we have chosen the classy pink gold model for our involved review.
When Brazilian pilot Santos-Dumont commissioned a watch from his companion Louis Cartier in 1904 that he could wear while guiding his plane – and not need to lift his hand from the controls – little did either of these refined men speculate that the outcome would become quite possibly the most mainstream and suffering Cartier symbols ever. Portrayed by a square case with noticeable screws, a shape that contradicted the design for round pocket watches, the Santos has stood out forever as the primary pilot watch and a forerunner of the gent’s wristwatch. What got going as a bespoke commission went into sequential creation in 1911, with LeCoultre developments, and took off during the 1970s when it was returned to in a wristband piece with screws on the bezel and arm band. Removed from creation in 2016, the Santos returned in 2018 with a revived and more voluptuous case, yet consistently deferential of its precursor’s remarkable traits.
What comes first – the case or the development? On account of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, the abrogating worry of the designers has been to regard the smooth forms and evenness of the notable case, implying that the development, in view of the acclaimed 2012 Caliber de Cartier Chronograph , has been altered to move the pushers. Rather than including the standard pair of chronograph pushers on the correct side of the case, the Santos Chronograph includes a tactful rectangular pusher on the left side of the case for the beginning/stop capacities. Handily mixed up as a monopusher chronograph, the Santos is, truth be told, a two-pusher chronograph with the reset work settled inside the crown and enacted by depressing the cabochon.
The initial introduction has to do with the size of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, as of now the greatest brother in the line-up of Santos watches. Promoted as an ‘Additional Large’, the case estimates 43.3mm x 51.4mm with a thickness of 12.5mm, however the tenderly bended hauls and incorporated wristband/lash weaken its rotundity. The returned to case state of 2018, with its softly rounded edges, smooth silk brushed case and cleaned bezel and screws, passes on a prompt feeling of extravagance and you can feel the consoling load of the pink gold. Cartier has a novel capacity to make intriguing case shapes (see here for the latest patching up of the 1906 Tonneau watch ), and even a ‘square’ watch like the Santos comes bursting at the seams with development and differentiating surfaces. I love the inconspicuous wave shape on the correct side of the case and the opening it makes to accept the crown and was dazzled by the general ease and complex ergonomics of the case. Another large in addition to is the 100m water-opposition of the case.
Immediately conspicuous as a Cartier watch, the dial passes on all the slipped by time data in perfect style. The square locale of the dial has a brushed silver surface differentiating to the snailed and somewhat recessed foundations of the 30-second and 12-hour registers, and the more modest auxiliary seconds and date work at 6 o’clock. Cartier has made a generally excellent decision in regards to the hands trading the customary blued-steel hands for thicker, sword molded hands covered with a lot of lume. The trademark minute scale has additionally been moved to the outskirts and the Roman numerals are bolder with regards to the energetic character of the watch.
For many, the consolidation of type 1904-CH MC was the truly energizing information about this watch and it is a disgrace that the caseback is shut. A similar base development as found in the 2012 Caliber de Cartier Chronograph and the Cartier Tank MC , (automatic section wheel chronograph with little seconds and date is an assembling development delivered by ValFleurier) for the Santos de Cartier chronograph the development has been changed to isolate the chronograph pushers and spot them on independent sides of the case.
One of the benefits of this development, that was made under the management of Carole Forestier, overseer of development creation at Cartier, is the mallet system to guarantee the chronograph is reset with the perfect measure of power, regardless of how hard or soft you push. With a recurrence of 28,800vph/4Hz, the watch has a force save of 48 hours.
Interchangeable lash and arm band adjustment
The rose gold form of the Santos de Cartier chronograph come with a gator leather lash and a fascinating finished elastic tie with screws at either furthest point of the principal connects to repeat the screws on the bezel. The steel models additionally come with a coordinated metal wristband. All models are outfitted with the brand’s QuickSwitch framework – a brisk delivery button that makes changing the tie a snap – and the wristbands come with the SmartLinks choice that allows you to change the length of the arm band without the need of a screwdriver.
I think Cartier has been amazingly fruitful at forming the Santos to make an energetic chronograph without forfeiting an inch of its style. More modest wrists may be overpowered by the case size, however the completions are truly five star and the innovative blend of math and soft shapes sit flawlessly on a bigger wrist. The determination of wider hands, the liberal utilization of lume and the consoling water-obstruction are fundamental highlights for a games watch that actually figures out how to look dressy and très, très Cartier.
The 18k rose gold model we have included in this article will be accessible in April 2019 and retails for USD 24,700. For more data, if it’s not too much trouble, counsel www.cartier.com .
The Santos de Cartier Chronograph is likewise accessible in steel with Black ADLC-covered bezel and dark elastic lash, just as in steel with yellow gold accents (bezel and screws on the connections) with costs beginning at USD 8,950. Both are captured below.