Romain Gauthier is, without question, one of the top watchmakers with regards to adornment – check this and you’ll get why. His watches are however precisely entrancing as they seem to be uncommon, and his degree of mastery in the completing of a development – in the customary “Vallée de Joux” style – is unquestionable. Divine material for prepared authorities. Today, the man divulges his most recent watch, in view of the (clearly) straightforward Prestige HMS, and presents his first watch created in stainless steel. Don’t believe that since it is in steel any corners have been cut; the execution of the dial and the completions on the development demonstrate otherwise. Meet the HMS Stainless Steel and Meteorite.
The Prestige HMS is Romain Gauthier’s (magnificent) vision of a period just watch. Absolutely not the most energizing of his watches with regards to complications and mechanics – the honor goes to the Logical One – this piece is, be that as it may, significantly more than simply a period just piece. You may have just seen that there’s a major issue with the case… something missing. First amazement: there’s no crown on the case. Second astonishment: turn over the watch and take a gander at the development and you’ll see that a period just capacity doesn’t essentially mean simple watchmaking. The Prestige HMS is an unadulterated connoisseur’s watch. Circumspect from the outset sight, brimming with subtleties once you take a nearer look.
Already existing in various releases , every one of them with an in part opened dial and valuable metal cases, another rendition of the Prestige HMS has quite recently been divulged: Romain’s first watch made of stainless steel, which likewise turns out to be the primary form of this watch with a shut dial. Furthermore, what a dial it is!
The instance of the HMS Steel is, as shown by its name, made of stainless steel. Combining cleaned and silk completed surfaces, its execution resembles the remainder of the watch: magnificent. Rather enormous on paper (43mm x 12.1mm), the measurements are constricted by the absence of a crown a 3 o’clock and inclining carries. Winding the development and setting the time is done on the converse side, where a level crown is coordinated. Both exquisite and commonsense consistently. The decision for stainless steel wasn’t just determined by the plan to have an exceptional piece, yet fundamentally to correspond with the material utilized for the dial: meteorite, a material with high ferrous content.
The pièce de résistance in regards to the habillage is the meteorite dial. This isn’t a first for the watchmaking business, a long way from it. In any case, Romain Gauthier depends on a strong, thick layer (0.8mm) of meteorite to fabricate this dial – and not a slender cut of meteorite joined on a metal base. The material can really be seen through the movement.
The meteorite used to make the dial is an octahedrite – an iron meteorite – that was found in 1931 at the Henbury pit field in the Northern Territory of Australia. The meteorite seems as though a genuinely standard lump of dark metal until it is exposed to a nitric corrosive treatment that uncovers meeting groups of nickel-iron gem. As you can see on the pictures, the example is complex and the surface purposely finished. The lone treatment applied is an enemy of erosion coating, to guarantee its appearance won’t weaken over time.
The show of the HMS is, as its name demonstrates, in view of the signs of the hours, minutes and seconds – every one of them marginally off-focused to give the watch a controlled erraticism. Tracks and markers are painted in white straightforwardly on the meteorite plate, while applied triangles mark the hours. The hands are totally darkened steel for a superior difference over the dim dial. Hour markers and hands are loaded up with iridescent material.
Turning the watch over uncovers perhaps the most noteworthy developments presently underway. Truly, trust us, Romain Gauthier and his group are in the best five of the Swiss Watchmaking industry with regards to brightening a development. The Calibre 2206 HMS is on the whole fabricated in-house (except two or three sections), with signature gears with circular spokes, a bespoke offset wheel with bended arms and aligned unpredictable loads, and S-opening screw heads. The development ticks at 4Hz and flaunts a comfortable 60h force reserve.
Moving to the embellishment, this is the place where Gauthier’s aptitude truly gets communicated. All the parts are done and embellished by hand, in the most customary way, despite the fact that the development is present day looking. The wheel spokes are inclined with sharp inside points, for instance. The slopes are persistently made and cleaned by hand. Their surface is carefully cleaned to acquire a uniform gloss without even the smallest imperfection. The amazing bercé anglage (the adjusted profile of the slants) on the bridges is performed by a modest bunch of specialists in the business… The patterns in the primary extension reveal ultra-sharp inner points, which must be performed by super-gifted hands. We’re talking about over 60 hours of patient work to complete such a development. For more differentiation and advancement, the extensions are dark NAC-treated and straight grained while the mainplate is hand-frosted.
The Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Stainless Steel Meteorite will be created in just 10 pieces. It will be valued at CHF 68,000 (before charges). The cost of a genuine hand tailored piece. More subtleties on www.romaingauthier.com .