Since its presentation in 1998, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3714 has become the most pursued, the most unmistakable, and unquestionably the smash hit model in the Portugieser family. Aside from being a genuine plan achievement, this watch has obtained clique status for one explanation: it hasn’t changed a piece since its beginning. To commend the twentieth commemoration of this cutting edge symbol, we thought the time had come to take a top to bottom glance at this watch with a review of the Portugieser Chronograph 3714.
A short history of the IWC Portugieser
The IWC Portugieser (not alluded to as Portuguese or Portugaise any more) has its foundations in the country that gave its name to this famous watch. Portugal has a rich history of exploring legends, with wayfarers of the height of Vasco da Gama or Ferdinand Magellan, yet oceanic investigation has nothing to do with the name of this watch.
The IWC Portugieser was presented in 1939, under the reference 325, after two Portuguese money managers – Rodrigues and Teixeira – visited the IWC manufacture in Schaffhausen with an uncommon solicitation. They needed all the exactness of a marine chronometer in a wristwatch design. This brought about the making of an enormous, clear treated steel watch, outfitted with a pocket watch development. Fitted with the hand-wound type 74, it was marginally adjusted to become a tracker development so the crown could be situated on the correct side of the case.
The Ref. 325 was an amazingly enormous watch for those days. Estimating 43mm in distance across, when most contemporary watches estimated under 34mm, the style of the watch was eminently practical with an attention on intelligibility, breaking with the overarching pattern of excessively planned Art Deco watches. The critical components of the plan were the basic Arabic numerals, a super slender (practically non-existent) bezel, leaf-formed hands and a useful minutes/seconds track. These plan components have stood the trial of time and are highlighted in the cutting edge adaptations of the IWC Portugieser.
From 1939 until 1993, the IWC Portugieser was hard to come by. Just 304 pieces with Caliber 74 were delivered and 371 pieces with the development of this development, the Caliber 98 (and its ensuing variant, Caliber 982). During the 1970s and 1980s, the watch was sold solely on the German market and many idea it was the finish of the marine chronometer wristwatch by IWC.
In 1993, the circumstance changed and the IWC Portugieser made its comeback for the 125th commemoration of the brand with the Jubilee Edition Ref. 5441 – a 42mm watch delivered in 1,750 pieces (1,000 in treated steel, 500 in rose gold, 250 in platinum), which was very devoted to the first Ref. 325, including a pocket watch-enlivened development, Caliber 9828 (an advancement of the Calibers 98 and 982). Nonetheless, the genuine comeback of the IWC Portugieser, as a reliable assortment, happened in 1995 with the presentation of two significant watches. The first was the Ref. 5240, brief repeater delivered in 550 pieces (50 in platinum, 250 in rose gold and 250 in yellow gold), with a repeater component fitted on a hand-wound Caliber 95. Despite the fact that it was a profoundly complicated model, this watch held the exemplary look of the Portugieser collection.
The most significant acquaintance has with be credited to the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Ref. 3712 (or DoppelChronograph), which was presented in 1995 and would become the motivation for the model we are reviewing today. Both as far as plan and detail – with the joining of an improved on split-seconds complication, adjusted on a hand-wound Valjoux 7750 (a module created by Richard Habring, and utilized now in the Habring2 Doppel-Felix ) – the Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante is the establishment stone of the current assortment. Before very long, the assortment will extend with many various watches (think IWC Portugieser Automatic 7-day in 2000) and complications (QP, tourbillon, yearly schedule, in-house chronograph or even a Grande Complication).
The IWC 3714 – Background
In 1998, three years after the presentation of the Chronograph Rattrapante 3712, IWC dispatched an improved on model – Ref. 3714 – a standard chronograph having a similar plan, a similar case, a similar dial and a similar showcase. The primary contrast concerned the capacities, as the 3714 disposed of the rattrapante work and took a programmed development on board.
Before we move to the review of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714, I’d like to say a couple of words on why this watch is so significant, and why this watch is so unique in the core of authorities and inside the assortment. One thing that IWC lovers have known about lately was a sure absence of consistency in the assortments. Previous CEO Georges Kern’s system was to reestablish a whole assortment consistently (Ingenieur in 2013, Aquatimer in 2014, Portugieser in 2015, Pilot’s Watches in 2016 and Da Vinci in 2017). Therefore, watches that might have become works of art were immediately supplanted – something that could lead a few group to accept they were (moderately speaking, obviously) more “disposable goods” or “fashion accessories” than dependable, ageless extravagance items.
One watch that didn’t experience the ill effects of this technique was the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714. Except for an intermittent dial varieties (silver, dark, blue, dark with silver counters and more restricted releases), IWC kept the watch outwardly and actually indistinguishable from the first 1998 idea. A consistency in the plan and a smart situating were vital to the accomplishment of the 3714, combined with the way that it additionally addresses the passage level model to the Portugieser assortment and is a watch with sensible extents. Along these lines as a Speedmaster or a Submariner, the 3714 turned into a cutting edge symbol that most watch devotees quickly perceive – to put it plainly, a foundation of IWC’s identity.
Let’s presently proceed onward to the review of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714.
The IWC 3714 – Case and Design
When I began my horological venture, around 12 years prior, the Portugieser Chronograph was one of the principal watches I ran over. In any case, in those days, my underlying contemplations on this piece were not equivalent to my appreciation for the watch today. I viewed the watch as plain, basic and lacking in creativity – which isn’t totally off-base, yet not for the correct reasons. The primary issue was my absence of development as a gatherer and the straightforward actuality that I had never tried the watch on the wrist. What’s more, trust me, the 3714 should be tried to be completely valued. When worn, you comprehend that the general circumspection and the inflexibility of its plan are what make the 3714 so appealing.
So, indeed, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is spotless, circumspect and thorough, respecting ideas that won in the first mission of the Portugieser. A perfect dial, a plan focussed on readability and, in general, a utilitarian watch. Today, the 3714 is accessible in six distinct variants – 4 in steel with silver/gold dial, silver/blue dial, dark/rhodium dial, blue/rhodium dial and 2 in pink gold with a record shaded dial or silver/gold dial. Today, we’ll center around the steel model with blue files and hands – despite the fact that the most notable variant remaining parts the steel with a silver-plated dial and gold hands/indices.
The instance of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is by and large equivalent to the instance of the watch dispatched 20 years prior – itself a deduction of the 3712. While the base idea of the Portugieser was to have a pocket watch development fitted inside a huge case, the 3714 Chronograph is marginally more sensible on this side – more commercial perhaps – with a case that measures “only” 40.9mm – alluding to the distance across of the actual case, not the bezel.
Like the first, the bezel is practically non-existent. Very meager, formed like a switched cone (the bezel is more extensive than the case) and making a huge window on the dial, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph combines the most awesome aspect the two universes: the comfort of a moderately little watch with the impression of having a huge piece on the wrist.
With a tallness of 12.6mm, the case is additionally wonderfully flimsy for a programmed chronograph, and keeping in mind that not particularly compact on paper – 47mm carry to-drag – the state of the case is comfortable and even, even on more modest wrists. Regarding development, we have a barrel shaped focal holder with coordinated carries (which means straight flanks) on top of which the bezel is fixed. The screwed caseback is domed to ingest a portion of the thickness of the development and helps the watch look more slender too.
The completing comprises cleaned zones – top of the hauls, sides of the bezel, crown and pushers – and brushed surfaces – level on the case and vertical in the middle of the drags. Altogether, the instance of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 is quite amazing. It is perfect, exactly changed and collected, refined on all surfaces – something I was not expecting prior to having this watch in my hands.
Other highlights are a raised sapphire precious stone (with an efficient anti-intelligent covering on the two sides of the gem), a non-screwed crown that is adequately huge to be comfortably controlled, and short, wide mushroom-like chronograph pushers – simple to work yet rather solid when squeezing them, as consistently with Valjoux-fueled watches. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 is water-impervious to 30 meters just, which may be one of the primary issues I have with this watch. Thinking about the nautical motivation, IWC ought to improve the water-protection from 100 meters – for greater adaptability. Be that as it may, for the trust the evidence speak for itself, the case is basically very well executed.
The IWC 3714 – Dial and hands
While the instance of the 3714 makes concessions to comfort and day by day ease of use with a more modest measurement than the first idea, the dial of this watch is faithful to its predecessor. There is no denying it, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph is a genuine Portugieser.
While the expansion of a chronograph work isn’t completely in accordance with the marine chronometer motivation, IWC has figured out how to keep the straightforwardness and ideal decipherability of the first Portugieser flawless. The magnificence of this watch is that, despite the fact that it is controlled by a Valjoux development, you scarcely see the impressions of the mechanics in the presentation. The 3714 just highlights two sub-counters and forgoes the date window to offer a decent and smooth dial, with all signs situated on the 12-to-6 o’clock pivot – which is, indeed, a reference to old marine chronometers (with a little second at 6 o’clock and a force hold at 12 o’clock).
Apart from these two sub-enrolls, the dial of the 3714 honors the early Portugieser models, with its Arabic numerals, its leaf-molded hands and the shortfall of any unnecessary highlights. Absolutely, there’s a touch of writing on the dial – logo at 3 o’clock and “Chronograph Automatic” at 9 o’clock – be that as it may, by and by, proportional and well-positioned.
The rendition we have here for the review – Ref. 371446 – highlights the record-breaking exemplary silver-plated dial, which you undoubtedly know in its other structure, with brilliant lists and hands. The actual dial is cleaned, except for the sub-enlists that are recessed and enhanced with a snailed design. The tone is substantially more energetic in the metal than the official photographs recommend. Marginally glowing with a metallic vibe, it plays a great deal with the surrounding light. Along these lines, it very well may be warm or cool, white or shimmering relying upon the conditions.
On this form, all the files, numerals and hands are blue. Then once more, contingent upon the surrounding light, they change from practically dark to a splendid, extraordinary blue shade (see photograph above).
The primary hands – hours and minutes – are leaf-molded and offer an incredible differentiation to the gleaming white dial. The execution is, indeed, exact and refined. The other hands are more basic in plan, particularly the very meager focal chronograph hand. However, perusing passed times remains easy.
The Arabic numerals, a mark component of the Portugieser assortment, are available here, marginally raised over the fundamental plate of the dial. They offer a wonderful vibe of profundity and invigorate the dial. At last, being a chronograph, IWC has made an extra seconds track, which is imprinted on the inward rib – no tachymeter or pulsometer scale here, as they are not pertinent to the first concept.
The IWC 3714 – Movement
As the majority of you may know, the critical component to the openness of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 lies in its moderately straightforward development. Shockingly, IWC didn’t give in to the alarm requires a production development in this watch – with the exception of the 150th-commemoration Ref. 3716 restricted release dispatched recently. The 3714 actually depends on Valjoux 7750 design, yet widely modified.
When it was dispatched in 1998, the Ref. 3714 was outfitted with the Caliber 79240, which thusly was subbed around 2007 for the current Caliber 79350. Other than the completing and the scaffolds that are presently rhodium-plated rather than overlaid, the developments are indistinguishable. Beneath, the old 79240 on the left and the current 79350 on the right.
What ought to be underlined is that the base development has been widely altered to fulfill with IWC’s guidelines. To start with, the showcase is extraordinary; the 12-hour counter has been eliminated and the little seconds sub-dial set at 6 o’clock (rather than 9 o’clock on a standard 7750). Additionally, the date instrument has been totally taken out – no “ghost” position on the crown. At long last, the Caliber 79350 highlights 31 gems, rather than the 25 gems on a 7750 – proof of the multitude of adjustments executed on the movement.
Finally, a portion of the parts have been moved up to a more excellent, explicitly the escapement, the equilibrium and the hairspring to offer better chronometric results. The remainder of the determinations are equivalent to other 7750 developments: 4Hz recurrence, 44h force save and the ordinary “wobbly” impression of the wavering load in action.
The enrichment is modern – Geneva stripes, perlage – however considering the steel caseback, it doesn’t truly matter on this watch.
The IWC 3714 – On the Wrist
How does the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 perform on the wrist? All things considered, essentially incredible. Regarding comfort, the moderately little breadth (taking into account what IWC is accustomed to creating) considers the watch to be adaptable and even, whatever the size of the wrist – for example, I have a rather little wrist (17cm) and the watch looks extraordinary and proportioned.
The hauls are bended and short enough to guarantee the case doesn’t jut from the wrist. Concerning the thickness, the 3714 is moderately slim for a watch furnished with a programmed chronograph development – again adding to the comfort and to the tact of the watch. Adequately meager to fit under a sleeve? Tragically no, nonetheless, this is pretty much consistently the case with a chronograph. No show here.
The tie, which is situated low on the hauls, is absolutely the boldest piece of this watch, particularly on this blue rendition. Its tone isn’t uniform and looks marginally “washed” – hazier on the outskirts of the scales and lighter in the middle. Despite the fact that it isn’t created by Santoni, the nature of this lash is brilliant. Thick yet not hardened, it promptly embraces the wrist and doesn’t need a variation period prior to becoming comfortable. This tie is comparable to the remainder of the watch: truly made, very much planned, comfortable. Same goes for the clasp, which shows wonderful improvements (brushed and inclined) just as being comfortable – I ordinarily favor pin-clasps to deployant fastens, yet here I’ll keep the OEM clasp.
Finally, what might be said about the vibe of the watch? Indeed, the “strict”, somewhat Teutonic, clean plan of this watch is really its fundamental strength. What some see as a deadened watch is for others, an exemplary extravagance object that will stand the trial of time charitably. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 isn’t a genuine games watch, it isn’t a dress watch either. It is adaptable and can be worn in many conditions (formal attire or pants and shoes). I for one have an inclination for this 371446 model with blue records over the more work of art, more formal 371445 with brilliant hands/lists. The blue tone is more in accordance with the nautical theme and adds more difference, more easygoing quality and a wonderful “summer” look.
Overall, it is a watch that can’t turn out badly. It unquestionably isn’t the most embellished, colorful piece in the assortment, yet it is brimming with prudent subtleties and its execution is great. What’s more, in the event that it looked great 20 years prior, and looks great now, it will glance great in a long time from now.
This review affirmed a certain something: the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 really merits its notable status. It is one of those watches that, at some point or another, most watch devotees should consider – close by the Speedmaster or the Submariner. We should cheer IWC for keeping this piece unblemished, for not transforming it drastically.
As for the actual item, it isn’t precisely modest – EUR 7,600 – however permit us two contemplations. To start with, as the section level contender to the Portugieser assortment, it isn’t a particularly extreme cost. Then, you need to consider the general nature of this watch – case, dial, tie and even development (recollect that it is vigorously adjusted and improved) – which makes it an excellent offer in the sub-10k class. Let’s simply trust it will remain the manner in which it is for the following 20 years. This is the manner by which you make a symbol. More subtleties at iwc.com .