Patek – Hand-Wound – Chronograph: three words that give you a prompt sign of what’s in store. Exemplary, notorious, immortal, alluring, notable. This watch, a manual-twisting chronograph by Patek, is an ideal illustration of the chalice watch for some gatherers. Thus, you can envision that with regards to supplanting it, the brand just can’t bear to commit errors. Furthermore, since there’s another watch in the genealogy, the time has come to respond to the inquiry: what are our impressions of Patek Philippe’s new Hand-Wound Chronograph, the 5172G?
The exemplary, very good quality chronograph (without extra complications) is quite possibly the most delegate watches of Patek’s savoir-faire, a compendium of the style, limited mentality and immortal search for which the brand is well known. This sort of watch feels so natural that you get the inclination that it has consistently been addressed in Patek’s collections… But you’d be wrong!
As amazing as it sounds, the exemplary hand-wound chronograph had been ended for right around 40 years at Patek Philippe. During the 1940s and 1950s, they were made in various shapes, under a few references – ref. 130, ref. 1579, ref. 530, ref. 533 and for the most part, the famous reference 1463. Also, in all honesty, the ref. 1463 would be the remnant of a dying breed for right around 40 years. Indeed, Patek Philippe quit delivering this hand-wound chronograph in the mid 1960s and we wouldn’t see an essential Patek chronograph again until 1998.
When Patek Phillipe relaunched an exemplary hand-wound chronograph (with no extra capacities other than the chronograph) back in 1998, it was a major deal… For two reasons: most importantly, it denoted the comeback of a notable kind of watch for Patek; second, this renewed introduction arrived in an extremely huge case size – even curiously large, you could say, considering it was over 20 years prior. Reference 5070 denoted the resurrection of the hand-wound chronograph, a 42mm watch furnished with a Lemania-based development, totally wrapped up by Patek to become the type CH-27-70. Dispatched first in yellow gold with a dark dial (the 5070J, created from 1998 to 2002), this watch had a life expectancy up until 2008/2009. A few renditions were dispatched – 5070G white gold/silver dial somewhere in the range of 2002 and 2006, 5070R rose gold/silver dial somewhere in the range of 2004 and 2008 lastly, 5070P platinum/blue dial delivered for a couple of months somewhere in the range of 2008 and 2009. Around 250 pieces every time of the ref. 5070 were delivered before it was supplanted in 2010 by another, more controlled model.
At Baselworld 2010, Patek divulged the 5170, a less questionable, more “academic” watch. With its exemplary 39mm case, its Calatrava-formed drags and bezel, its cleaned up dial – at any rate in its later signs since the original included a pulsometer scale on the dial – the 5170 was a watch to satisfy the majority, while the 5070 was more provocative. This watch is as yet quite possibly the most rich pieces as of late made by the Geneva-based brand. Adjusted, wonderfully executed, somewhat vintage…
There was additionally a major oddity inside the case, the type CH-29-535, Patek’s own hand-wound chronograph development, fused interestingly inside a men’s watch. There were three primary appearances of this watch: implement markers with pulsometer; Breguet numerals with pulsometer; lastly, Breguet numerals with just a seconds scale (no pulsometer). More subtleties on this watch here . This reference was in the assortment for the accompanying nine years, until Baselworld 2019 and the dispatch of the reference 5172G.
The new Classic Chrono, the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G
Describing the 5172G as a ‘important’ watch for Patek Philippe is putting it mildly. It is a urgent watch, one that should kindly long haul authorities, genuine devotees of the brand who understand what the straightforward hand-wound chronograph addresses at Patek… However, Patek is a company and accordingly, needs to acquire new clients as well. The market for very good quality chronographs is packed; JLC, Vacheron, Breguet, Blancpain, Chopard LUC and Lange are on the whole battling on this combat zone. Competition is cruel and Patek needs to advance, and yet Patek needs to satisfy a traditionalist demographic as well. That’s a difficult task for the 5172G.
So how has Patek tended to the issue? With a straightforward yet extremely effective formula: take what is best in the 5170 – its limited look, its polish, its hand-wound development – eliminate what makes it too traditionalist – Breguet numerals, generally modest looking case, possibly altogether too little – add a touch of vintage subtleties, play on the accomplishment of the interminable schedule ref. 5320G , shake that up, add a last hint of in vogue tone and a slight dose of casualness… and voilà!
OK, I’m being somewhat reductive here however, to put it plainly, this is the formula for the Patek 5172G. Does it taste great? As far as I might be concerned, indeed, particularly to be sure. Yet, we’ll see why later. Let’s take a gander at the watch in details.
To comprehend the 5172G you initially need to glance back at the never-ending schedule ref. 5320G , just in light of the fact that I think about this as the fundamental wellspring of motivation behind this chronograph. The 5320G was dispatched in 2017 and was collectively acclaimed as an exceptionally accomplished watch. Adjusted, exquisite yet in addition new as far as plan, with numerous even references to great past models. The 5172G acquires a few components of this watch and adds a chronograph capacity to it.
Let’s investigate the case. Regarding extents, Patek Philippe marginally expands the width to 41mm – versus 39.4mm for the 5170 models – to make this watch somewhat more easygoing, somewhat sportier, a smidgen more current, however not curiously large either. The profile remains generally thin at 11mm and the watch wears extraordinary on most men’s wrists. I could live with a 39mm case yet clearly, the market required a somewhat greater watch.
The fundamental development concerns the shape. Surrendering the exemplary Calatrava-formed instance of the 5170, this watch embraces the greatly styled hauls of the 5320. Much the same as the never-ending schedule, Patek adds a slight Art Deco contact with triple-ventured horns motivated by a generally uncommon reference (the 2405, a basic 3-hand watch from the 1940s), yet with an unmistakable case with gadroons and triple-ventured hook hauls. These are, as far as I might be concerned, the primary fascination of this watch and give it an inconceivable appeal. The case has sharp aspects, straight lines and points yet never feels forceful. Rich, somewhat different… Mastered!
Another vintage detail can be seen on the pushers finished with a guilloché design that reviews some old fashioned references (see for example the ref. 1463 envisioned at the highest point of this article). Patek reincorporated the exemplary mushroom chronograph pushers yet has embellished them with this tactful yet lovely detail. Once more, very much done! The last “vintagey” contact is the option of a container molded sapphire precious stone on top, something that adds engage, makes decent reflections/twists and thins down the case.
On the dial side, the impact of the 5320G is likewise clear. Similar Arabic numerals, the equivalent “syringe” hands – which are named by Patek “fine-tipped baton” – and a similar somewhat less moderate demeanor. For this Hand-Wound Chronograph 5172G, be that as it may, Patek has gone for a matte blue stained dial. The outcome is an advanced, easygoing dial that is spotless, decipherable and a piece “dans l’air du temps” yet lovely in general. The combination of hands/hour producers is likewise less severe than that included on the 5170 and assists with separating this watch from the other chronographs of the brand.
To further the vintage/easygoing vibe, Patek has reincorporated a tachymeter scale, which bodes well here than the scale included on the more modest 5170. The two sub-dials – little seconds and 30-minute counter – are traditionally situated low on the dial, a “trick” to forestall fakes, however maybe not the most outwardly engaging subtlety of the watch. Shockingly, Patek won’t be evolving this.
Final touch… a straightforward blue calfskin tie to coordinate the dial rather than the conventional, more dressy shiny gator strap. once more, this tones down the watch and adds a dash of “cool”. The lash comes with a white gold collapsing clasp, which I’d like to supplant with a basic prong clasp, more reasonable in this easygoing/vintage context.
There are no curve balls inside the case since the development is indistinguishable from its archetype, the type CH 29-535-PS (unimposing seconde). This customary, hand-wound, bi-compax chronograph development was a significant achievement for the brand when presented on the 5170J. Surely, it was the main men’s watch of the assortment to include this new development (that additionally fills in as a base for the 5204 , the 5270 and the 5370 ). This is a cutting edge development (wheels with protected tooth profiles, self-changing mallets, an advanced 4Hz recurrence, a variable idleness balance haggle long periods of force save) and is done with incredible consideration (hand-chamfered and cleaned edges, Geneva stripes, roundabout graining, gold chatons, completely completed switches… authenticated by the Patek seal ). One lament concerns the plan and format of this development, which a few gatherers discovered less engaging than the Lemania-based type. Notwithstanding, even if it loses regarding visual magnificence, it gains in innovation and technicality.
Patek Philippe 5172
So… has Patek Philippe figured out how to control its heredity of hand-wound chronographs the correct way with this new reference 5172G? If you were to ask me, yes. Notwithstanding a couple of complaints, essentially in regards to the dial design and the size of the case (39mm or 40mm would be great, in any event as I would see it), the watch figures out how to honor a respected genealogy without wandering in bizarre ways, and simultaneously, it brings new components, a touch of easygoing quality and a tempered, even measurements of vintage.
Considering the job of this watch – satisfying long-term authorities yet additionally pulling in new clients – I think Patek has worked effectively in finding a harmony between innovation, answers to showcase interest and conservatism.
Price and availability
The Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G-001 is – as is consistently the situation with the hand-wound chronographs – not a restricted version but rather it won’t be hugely delivered either. It is evaluated at EUR 66,870 – which makes it generously more costly than its principle competitors, the Lange 1815 Chronograph (EUR 51,000 in white gold) or the Vacheron “Cornes de Vaches” (EUR 56,000 in rose gold).
More subtleties at patek.com .