Like a decent thrill ride, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar 5212A is loaded with inconspicuous pieces of information that offer us a brief look into the methodologies of its creator. More complex than the élite and moderate line-up of Calatrava watches, the Weekly Calendar additionally withdraws from its family legacy of valuable metal cases and parades a tempered steel case. Right now the solitary Calatrava watch in steel, the 5212A gets a portion of its plan components from a 1955 predecessor, it comes with an area dial, a triumphant dash of “handwritten” text style on the dial, and another development. In spite of the fact that it is the main model to offer this irregular combination of calendar works, the Weekly Calendar sends the consoling inclination that it has consistently been an individual from the Patek dynasty.
Patek’s ability in calendar watches – and combinations of complex calendars with other complications – is amazing. Taking an alternate tack from the exemplary gap/sub-dial design of its exemplary calendar watches, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar receives a bizarre calendar complication and an area style dial. As indicated by Patek, the Weekly Calendar 5212A structures a piece of its methodology to grow its offer of “useful complications”, for this situation, the fuse of a weekly calendar work that is frequently utilized in business conditions. With a sticker price of around 30 thousand, is the steel Calatrava filling the hole for a regular treated steel watch that can’t be satisfied with a legendary Nautilus?
Odd and even week numbers
Who utilizes week numbers? Common in business conditions around Europe for creation timetables and conveyance dates, exemplary instances of enterprises utilizing week numbers are the auto area, yet additionally watchmaking, distributing and even money. Most years have 52 weeks, however on the off chance that the year begins a Thursday or is a jump year that begins a Wednesday, that specific year is said to have 53 weeks. Add to this that week numbering frameworks shift around the globe (United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand all beginning the week on Sunday), it’s not astonishing that an International Standard was drawn up – ISO 8601 – marking Monday as the main day of the week and setting up that the primary entire seven day stretch of the year is that containing January 4.
Watches that show the quantity of the week are rare; there is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with the quantity of the week on a dark section ring, the Oris Artelier Caliber 113 with a comparative design, and the Blancpain Semainier 53 Week. As you would have anticipated from a watch lodging 57 complications, Vacheron Constantin’s Ref. 57260 likewise has seven days number capacity, yet it’s a pocket observe so it doesn’t truly check. VC likewise had another watch, the reference 47052, which includes the signs of the week numbers in basically a similar manner as the 5212A.
Inspiration from 1955
With the unabated anger for retro, Patek Philippe had no trouble at all in discovering motivation for the instance of the Calatrava Weekly Calendar. Gladly showed in the Patek Philippe Museum, Ref. 2512 was the assigned dream. A stand-out piece made in 1955, the disposition of this time-just dress watch was its totally gigantic 46mm yellow gold case. As large as a contemporary IWC Pilot or Panerai watch, this huge was sold at sell off for an incredible US 962,500 by Sotheby’s New York in 2012 .
Luckily the case size was not the attribute that pulled in Patek’s fashioners. It was the complex and dynamic outline of the carries of Ref. 2512 that grabbed their eye. Reproduced on the Weekly Calendar, the two-layered drags project marginally over the stature of the caseband – in fact extremely hard to accomplish. In yielding to its predecessor, the new watch bears the quantities of the first reference (2512) in an alternate request (5212).
Currently the lone hardened steel dress watch in the Calatrava assortment (not taking into account the restricted release steel Ref. 5222A Pilot’s Calatrava which separates as a pilot-propelled piece), the Weekly Calendar 5212A is the oddball. For a top to bottom history of the development of the Calatrava, don’t miss Tom Mulraney’s articles Part 1 , Part II and Part III .
With its wearable 40mm distance across and lean 11.18mm tallness, the watch stays a dress watch however offers the common sense of steel. The three-section case is cold-framed with high-weight presses and is perfectly cleaned by hand. The snap bezel and snap back are squeezed onto the caseband and the case is water-impervious to 30m.
The utilization of treated steel, typically held for the extravagance sports Nautilus or Aquanaut models, brings an invigorating, somewhat more easygoing feel to the blend. In the event that you count the light earthy colored calfskin lash with white sewing and a prong clasp, you are certainly looking at a less august, valuable watch that asks to be worn on a day by day basis.
Sector dial with a vintage vibe
Protected by a vintage-style box sapphire precious stone with a somewhat cambered profile, the opaline dial of the Calatrava Weekly Calendar 5212A represents a takeoff from Patek’s standard line-up of calendar watches. More like an area dial with concentric circles to show the calendar capacities, the dial is incredibly simple to peruse and has a nearly ‘instrument’ watch feel to it.
Starting from the furthest piece of the dial, the two concentric scales show the months and relating week number. The following circle transfers the time with twirly doo style records that are very much like the facetted implement markers found on the Ref. 2512. Simply take a gander at the profile of those files or the sharp inclining facetted hands for a vibe of what Patek specializes in. Moving in above and beyond are the times of the week.
If you were to give these specs to an architect, the outcome would likely be a significant cool, utilitarian dial with totally executed numerals and compositions. This is the place where Patek Philippe has dominated in light of the fact that the dial of the 5212A transfers an exceptional “human” contact given by the typography, which was made for this watch dependent on the penmanship of one of the company’s planners. Special, unique and very beguiling, this touch counters the to some degree efficient data being transferred on the dial.
All the signs, with the exception of the date window at 3 o’clock, are perused by five superimposed, halfway mounted hands. Beginning from the top is the thin focal seconds hand with a thicker offset followed by the facetted Dauphine hands for the hours and minutes produced using darkened white gold. Two profoundly noticeable red sledge tipped hands of various lengths are utilized to flag the times of the week and the week number and month.
For its new Calatrava Weekly Calendar 5212A, Patek Philippe has built up another semi-coordinated component (92 extra parts and a thin tallness of only 1.52mm) to show the days and number of the week in course. Two licenses have been petitioned for the calendar instrument; one for the 24-hour finger (with its own return spring) driving the day of week component, and a second one for the inventive weekly calendar drive system, which causes the week number hand to propel each Monday. A 7-point star on the hour wheel in the focal point of the development controls the day of the week. Through a switch, a subsequent 7-point star with an all-encompassing Sunday tip drives the 53-tooth week wheel. The calendar shows advance semi-quickly in discrete strides to keep away from energy utilization peaks.
The capacities are changed through the crown and two correctors. The three unique places of the crown are utilized for winding, remedying the date and time. The date can be adjusted with the crown hauled mostly out. On account of a safeguard idea, the client can perform such amendments whenever of day or night without risking harm to the development. The corrector on the caseband at 10 o’clock is to change the week number and the corrector at 8 o’clock is to change the day of the week. The quantity of the week must be amended each 5 to 6 years when the year has an aggregate of 53 weeks.
calibre 26-330 S C J SE
In expansion to the weekly calendar instrument, Patek has given the 5212A a shiny new development dependent on self-winding type 324, yet overhauled and improved. Type 324 traces all the way back to 1982 and has had numerous developments however arrives at the peak of unwavering quality in 2019 with type 26-330 S CJ SE. To recognize the types, the 21k gold rotor of type 26-330 highlights a marginally extraordinary profile and is currently gotten with a nut, rather than a screw. Another update to type 324, initially outfitted with a backhanded seconds with a rubbing spring to forestall ‘prattle’ (vibration) in the seconds hand, is the supplanting of the contact spring with an enemy of backfire unnecessary extra person wheel with split teeth, which helps save energy (patent documented) and improves balance inertia.
The new type is additionally furnished with a stop seconds system to permit exact time setting with one-second exactness (like all Patek types of the most recent couple of years). A significant redesign respects the programmed winder. The 324 couldn’t be uncoupled for manual winding causing mileage so the development currently includes an uncoupling decrease wheel with a coordinated grip (patent recorded) and other enhancements to make component more dependable. Editor’s note: you can see this all wonderfully outlined and clarified by Philip Barat, head of watch improvement at PP, in this video.
The development includes in-house treats like the Gyromax® balance, a Spiromax® balance spring and sways at 28,800vph with a force hold of 35-45 hours (still too short…) As you would anticipate from Patek Philippe, the completions on the 304-section development are superb.
Perhaps my #1 Patek Philippe model this year, the Weekly Calendar 5212A is an invigorating, somewhat more easygoing partner to the moderate class of the Calatrava assortment. The combination of a specialized area dial with the unforeseen ‘human’ contact given by the ‘handwritten’ numerals and composing on the dial is right on the money. The lone protest I can plan respects the short force hold; having put such a lot of time and energy into improving and redesigning the type, a small piece more energy in the barrel would be generally welcome. A weekly calendar probably won’t be at the highest point of everybody’s ‘functionality wish list’, however it adds complexity and interest to the watch. Intelligible, obliging, and simultaneously unquestionably Patek, the Weekly Calendar is a winner.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar 5212A retails for EUR 30,600. For additional subtleties, kindly counsel www.patek.com .