Let’s be honest… The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G (the white gold form) was an intriguing issue of conversation when dispatched at Baselworld 2015. Whatever the inherent characteristics of this watch, it has been misconstrued. Too soon, too revolutionary, too extraordinary possibly. 3 years have passed now and there’s another form in the assortment, presently in rose gold with a warm earthy colored dial, under the ref. 5524R. With this new combination of shadings, we think it’s time for the compromise. Let’s have a more critical gander at the now very-Patekish Rose gold Calatrava Pilot.
This new rose gold adaptation of the 5524 is simply a difference in shadings – for both the case and the dial – and the men’s variant of a couple of watches presented adventitiously at Baselworld 2018. Surely, Patek has refreshed the men’s model as well as a ladies’ form has additionally been added to the assortment, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 7234R Lady and its 37.5mm case – and to be sure, it looks altogether equivalent with simply various extents, as revealed by Rebecca in her audit here . Two distinct sizes and an extraordinary formula for a profoundly attractive pair of watches. All in all, the inquiry is: the reason this rather basic difference in tones has such an effect? answer somewhat later in this article, after a gander at the watch itself.
As said, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 has been presented at Baselworld 2015 as a genuine oddity, an appropriately phenomenal watch with (from the outset) no genuine connection with Patek’s history. “A pilot’s watch by Patek? Apologies, did you simply say that? Indeed, I did…” As I can recollect, individuals at that time have been completely astonished by this new watch – including me – as barely any saw the connection with past models of the brand. It remains rather obscure however Patek had fabricated pilot’s watches in the past – as we clarified in our first inclusion of the 5524 here . As different other makers, Patek created pilot and military watches before WWII. Back in 1936, Patek Philippe made a remarkable watch called “hour point dial” (with a special component, as the hour hand pivots once in 24-hour and pointing the levels of bend onto the focus circle isolated into 360 degrees). Without being an appropriate re-version of this watch, the 5524 was some way or another motivated by this rather obscure piece – which is presently uncovered at the brand’s museum.
The watch Patek accompanied at Baselworld 2015 was very traditional – gothic applied numerals and antique pilot’s hands (that many compared to the Zenith Type 20 watches) – yet when looking at Patek’s creation, it was by one way or another profoundly unique. So extraordinary that this watch turned into an interesting issue of conversation. In those days, it was surely a misconstrued creation. However, the watch had a few contentions and, 3 years after its dispatch, many adjusted their perspectives – including me again – and the 5524 turned into a basic component of the assortment (even with the debut white gold/blue dial combination).
Being a pilot’s watch doesn’t mean this Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 isn’t a legitimate Patek either. It combines the credits of the two universes in an alluring way. The case, in any event for a Patek, is huge at 42mm and rather energetic fit as a fiddle and plan. Then again, it was made of white gold and not of tempered steel. The dial showed enormous iridescent numerals, at this point they were incredibly sensitive in their execution. Additionally, the watch highlighted one of Patek’s signature show, the “Travel Time” sign as found on the Aquanaut for example . At long last, the combination of a matte dull blue dial and a white gold case was lively and in the vein of a pilot’s watch – and perhaps, this is the place where it was too revolutionary and not Patek enough.
With the Rose gold Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R, it is time for the compromise, as this 2018 release includes a work of art and profoundly Patek shading combination: rose gold case and warm earthy colored dial. Hotter, undeniably more extravagant and valuable, the dial is not any more matte however has a sunray brushed example which adds to the sumptuous allure of the watch and makes pleasant reflections. Altogether, the watch definitely changes regarding style yet additionally of class – from a games easygoing watch in white gold to an exquisite present day watch in rose gold. What’s more, in my books (I’m sure many will impart these emotions to me), this watch feels both more consensual yet additionally more alluring. It some way or another re-gains the style you’re anticipating from a Patek Philippe.
For the rest, this Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R offers similar particulars as the 5524G. The generally slight case (10.78mm) is altogether cleaned and includes two mushroom-style screwed pushers on the left half of the case consider the change of the subsequent time zone (nearby time) in an instinctive way: the base pusher presents the time by one hour increases, the top pusher does the inverse and the brilliant neighborhood hour hand moves counterclockwise – so-to-say, an appropriate traveller’s watch. To stay away from unplanned changes, the two pushers are ensured with a protected security lock and the neighborhood date can be set through a pusher for the situation at 6:30 o’clock.
The dial is additionally natural. The neighborhood time is demonstrated by the primary cathedral hands while the home hour is given by the skeletonised hand. The 6 o’clock-situated date is, obviously, connected to the nearby time and both time-zones profit by their own day-night pointers (with openings at 3 and 9 o’clock, changing from white at day-time to blue at evening time). This traveller’s show is complemented by a focal second hand.
Inside the case is the notable type Caliber 324 S C FUS (for seconde focal fuseaux or focal second time-zones). This development depends on the significant self-twisting type with focal rotor found in different Calatrava watches just as on the Nautilus 5711 or the Aquanaut 5167. This “324 S C FUS” is found in the Aquanaut 5164A with totally equivalent functions. Measuring 31mm in breadth with a tallness of 4.9mm, the development has 294 sections and is improved with Patek’s advancements like a Gyromax® free sprung balance haggle Spiromax® balance spring. The significant degree of manual completions and accuracy – with a resilience of close to – 3/+2 seconds of the day – are certified by the Patek Philippe Seal .
The just genuine complaint we could have about this development is about its exhibitions. Obviously, as all Patek watches, it is extraordinarily finished and completely changed – no uncertainty about the exactness of this watch on the since a long time ago run. Notwithstanding that, the manner in which the complication is utilized consistently is sharp and helpful. However, this development feels marginally obsolete when looking at the force hold – declared at least 35 hours/most extreme 45 hours. Patek could improve this part and offer 3 days of force hold – enough to leave the watch in the crate during an end of the week and lash it again on Monday without the need to change it – realizing that the majority of things to come proprietors of this 5524R will positively switch observe routinely. Nothing sensational though.
The rich easygoing look of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R is further upgraded by a decent calfskin lash with matte earthy colored tone – and not an outdated sparkling croc strap, as often seen at Patek – and a three-piece latch framework. For this situation, the clevis clasp was roused by the tackles that permitted pilots to keep their endurance packs to hand and promptly deployable.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R is again an amazing watch. The new shading combination has an immense effect regarding look and feel on the wrist, with a substantially more exquisite touch. Eventually, likely the rendition that Patek ought to have dispatched first to evade the conversations seen in 2015… Price: EUR 43,210 – not modest, but rather advocated by one way or another by the execution and the magnificence of this watch. More subtleties on patek.com .