Celebrating the 20th commemoration of the Aquanaut in 2017, Patek Philippe introduced the Jumbo Ref. 5168G in white gold with a bigger breadth of 42.2mm, the most Jumbo size of this family to date and the first to be housed in a white gold case. The trendy blue dial of the 2017 model presently has a kin with a cool khaki green dial and coordinating “tropical” elastic strap. Generally, precisely the same watch as the 2017 model with a green strap and dial, the khaki green dial adds a safari/experience/military state of mind to the watch underlining its central goal as Patek’s regular games watch.
This isn’t the first run through the Aquanaut Jumbo shows up in khaki green clothing. In 2011, Patek gave an exceptionally restricted “special customers only” Aquanaut Jumbo 5167A-010 of every a 40mm treated steel case with a khaki green dial and strap. One of these incredibly uncommon models showed up on the sale circuit in 2015 and was sold for CHF 52,500 by Sotheby’s .
Scarcity, as Patek surely understands, encourages interest. Yet, who might have envisioned that even the khaki green elastic straps, sold independently by retailers, would become hot commodities in their own right? Bloggers and gatherers began posting photos of their Aquanauts (5167s and other models with dim dials) altered with khaki green straps and the reaction via web-based media was positive to such an extent that Patek chose to make the most of present opportunities. So that’s the raison d’être of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G with Khaki Green Dial.
Background of the Aquanaut
Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut (Ref.5060) was situated as the brand’s entrance level, multipurpose games watch intended to focus on a more youthful, trendier group. With its sportier, pared-down interpretation of the consecrated Nautilus, the Aquanaut accompanied a more amicable sticker price and, without precedent for Patek’s set of experiences, was fitted with an elastic strap. Shocking as this may be for Patek’s more highbrow customers, elastic had just cruised into the domains of watchmaking installed Carlo Crocco’s groundbreaking 1980 Hublot watch with its gold case and dark elastic strap.
Touted by certain pundits as a helpless man’s Nautilus (kindly read the last passage to perceive any reason why it is unquestionably NOT a poor man’s Nautilus), the Aquanaut has consistently been a dubious piece. Without going into the historical backdrop of the Nautilus (you can peruse our broad 3-section inclusion here ), it’s not possible for anyone to ignore the gigantic impact this watch has had on the Aquanaut.
The adjusted octagonal bezel and level profile of the Aquanaut are immediate relatives of the Nautilus and set up a quick feeling of brand acknowledgment and progression. In a takeoff from its forgo, the Aquanaut shed the trademark “ears”, subbed the rod markers for Arabic hour numerals, made the hands thicker and the lume more articulated, and paraded a stylish elastic strap rather than the coordinated metal wristband of the Nautilus. A not so much complex but rather more rough 3-section case than its elder sibling, the Aquanaut lifted the water-protection from 120m and joined a sapphire caseback to see its manual-winding development. Following the dispatch of the 36mm Aquanaut during Baselworld 1997, Patek chose to offer a Jumbo rendition of the watch with a case size of 38mm (Ref. 5065).
Given the subtle idea of the Nautilus – except if, obviously, you structure part of Patek’s internal circle of ‘uncommon customers’ – people needing an energetic, ordinary model that actually tells the world you own a Patek have gone progressively to the Nautilus. Forthright, our supervisor in-boss and organizer, has a decent story to tell on his specific Nautilus odyssey, which you can peruse here .
With a 42.2mm distance across, this 2019 and the 2017 Jumbo are the biggest models in the family to date. You can tell that our view of enormous watches has modified since 1997 and a 42.2mm games watch these days is really standard toll. The thin case tallness of 8.25mm, the level profile and the practically weightless elastic strap make this Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G amazingly appealing to deal with. Additionally there is the consoling and rich load of white gold. The completions are standout – vertical silk finish on the bezel and cleaned flanks – and underline the watch’s family. The decision of white gold is additionally shrewd in light of the fact that it can generally be minimized as steel.
Khaki Green Dial
Unlike the blue model with its slope dial , this khaki green dial is uniform and has no shading varieties. Combined with the matte surface, the dial comes across as absolutely level and is thusly freed of reflections. The chequerboard emblazoning on the dial, with its adornment of equals and meridians like those found on a globe (evoking world travel?), add volume and interest to an otherwise level, matte dial.
The white gold Arabic numerals are applied to the dial and filled in with lume similar to the markers over the numerals and the thick rod formed hands. The radiance of the Aquanaut is ground-breaking and durable. Offering focal hour, minutes and clear seconds, the date window of the 5168G replaces the number ‘3’ and has a white background.
The elastic strap of the Aquanaut is serious. It was a separating factor back in 1997 and a provocative bait to draw in a more youthful, cooler, sportier customer. As should be obvious, the emblazoned design on the dial stretches out right to the khaki green strap, which I need to concede is amazingly comfortable, adaptable, and velvety to the touch and feels awesome against the wrist. Clearly, the strap is water-safe however it is additionally tough to foothold, saltwater and UV radiation and comes with the new protected overlap over fasten with four free catches.
Calibre 324 S C
Inside the case is Patek’s self-winding type 324 S C, a development imparted to the wide range of various 3-hand Aquanauts. Straightforward in capacity, the slender 3.3mm type is fitted with some of Patek Philippe’s best improvements like the Gyromax equilibrium and Spiromax balance spring. The 21k gold rotor – enlivened with Geneva stripes and Patek’s Calatrava cross – guarantees a force save of approximately 45 hours. The embellishments are not extravagant yet adequate with enough tender loving care and exactness to justify the Patek Philippe Seal.
The combination of a white gold case and khaki green dial and strap functions admirably. Cool, tough, somewhat military or safari (take your pick), the Aquanaut Jumbo is strong and water-safe, yet rich and all around wrapped up, bearing the Patek Philippe air that is essential to numerous purchasers. It’s the sort of watch that implies a functioning open air way of life, and will no uncertainty be a success in the Aquanaut range.
My one censure – and a serious enormous one – about this Aquanaut 5168G is its cost. Also, you can disperse any pestering questions about this being a poor man’s Nautilus! Retailing for EUR 36,010, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G is more costly than a period and-date Steel Nautilus Ref. 5711 (EUR 27,780). All good, it is white gold rather than treated steel, yet I can consider numerous other first class sports watches with significantly more to offer for a large portion of the cost. I surmise the reality of claiming a Patek Philippe and making sure that everyone can remember it as a Patek Philippe comes at a cost. Does that make it a rich man’s sports watch? What do you think?
More data on the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G Khaki Green at patek.com .