In 2015, Patek Philippe dazed the extravagance watch community with the divulging of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 . Polarizing in its plan, it was effectively perhaps the most discussed watches of the Fair. After four years and the Geneva force to be reckoned with is busy once more, pushing the limits much further with its most recent Grand Complication, the Ref. 5520P Alarm Travel Time. We were sufficiently blessed to invest a few involved energy with this amazing new timepiece. Here are our underlying thoughts.
If you’re new to the universe of extravagance watches, you may have missed all the contention encompassing the presentation of the Ref. 5524 out of 2015. Truth be told, presently you may even think that its difficult to accept there was any contention whatsoever, as the model has since become a center piece of the Calatrava assortment. To such an extent that a subsequent variant – the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234R Lady – appeared a year ago to rave reviews. Without a doubt, as Brice wrote in 2018 , the Ref. 5524 has gone from misconstrued revolutionary to exceptionally attractive collectable in only three brief years. Does that mean the watchmaking scene is prepared for its significantly more absurd kin, though?
The 2015, debut white gold rendition of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 The 2018 Rose Gold variant of the Calatrava Pilot ref. 5524R
So far, the criticism has been blended. Everybody appears to concur that actually the Ref. 5520P is extraordinary. Esthetically however, it is demonstrating similarly as polarizing, if not more along these lines, than the first Ref. 5524. The four crowns/pushers, specifically, appear to be a genuine sticking point, and justifiably so. You surely can’t miss them, and they give the watch an exceptionally particular look, which is genuinely not normal for anything we’ve seen before from Patek Philippe. That is not really something terrible psyche you, but rather it might simply require some investment before authorities genuinely make their brain up about this model.
Let’s separate it in more detail to check whether we can will grasps with this intense new watch.
Unusually, I will begin this active survey by examining the development first. There are two explanations behind this. Initially, I accept that understanding the mechanical inventiveness of the Ref. 5520P is vital to understanding the watch overall. Also, the type AL 30-660 S C FUS inside is a totally new development and was made explicitly for this watch.
According to Patek Philippe, around five years prior it requested that its specialists build up another alarm component and combining it with the Travel Time idea’s double cross zone course of action. To keep the case as flimsy as could be expected, the choice was taken to build up an incorporated development, instead of putting an alarm module on a current movement.
The other key factor was simplicity of activity, a thought that isn’t generally at the highest point of psyche when building up another piece of Haute Horlogerie. The thought was to make a Grand Complication that is coherent and instinctive to utilize and practically difficult to harm through incidental client impedance (for example enthusiastic proprietors attempting to initiate pushers when they shouldn’t).
The result is oneself winding type AL 30-660 S C FUS, comprised of 574 sections, including Patek’s protected Gyromax offset outfitted with a Spiromax balance spring made of Silinvar. The company doesn’t explicitly unveil the number of those components make up the new 24-hour alarm instrument. We do know anyway that its advancement has brought about four patent applications. These include:
- an hostile to kickback system for programming the alarm time, which offsets mechanical play making it conceivable to set the alarm hit with one-minute exactness to the following quarter hour. For example, at 12:14, the alarm can be set to 12:15;
- the alarm rationale functions;
- the advanced alarm show; and
- the alarm winding deactivation, which deactivates the alarm spring winding gadget when the alarm show shows ON.
As with the date, the 24-hour alarm is combined with the neighborhood time show, making it advantageous for travelers who would prefer not to depend on an inn reminder toward the beginning of the day. At the point when the alarm is set off, a sledge (obvious through the showcase back) strikes a gong that circles the development – much the same as brief repeater, rearranged to a solitary note. The striking proceeds for as long as 40 seconds at a recurrence of 2.5 Hz (2.5 strikes each second), or around 90 strikes altogether. An outward lead representative guarantees a normal and supported striking rhythm – once more, much the same as brief repeater. Force is given to the alarm system through a different spring barrel that is tensioned with a crown at 4 o’clock. An implicit grasp forestalls accidental over-tightening.
The development has a stop-seconds instrument that permits the time to be set with one-second precision. Enhanced with the Patek Philippe Seal, the development, obviously, offers a significant degree of manual completing and exactness – with a resilience of – 3/+2 seconds out of every day. Force save is somewhere in the range of 42 and 52 hours.
The sunburst dark dial of Ref. 5520P is fundamentally the same as that of the prior Ref. 5524 in display (not in shading or surface). Neighborhood time is as yet shown midway by the principle cathedral hands, while the home hour hand is skeletonised. The date is as yet shown by means of the sub-dial at 6 o’clock and is connected to the nearby time, and both time-zones have their own day/night markers (with openings at 3 and 9 o’clock separately, which change from white at daytime to blue at evening time). The hours are set apart by similar unmistakable applied Arabic numerals in 18k white gold with Super-LumiNova coating.
The key change, obviously, is the incorporation of the computerized alarm show just under 12 o’clock. The 24-hour alarm can be set in 15-minute augmentations and has its own day/night marker just under the gaps. Above is a little, alarm chime molded cut-out, which gives a fast visual marker of whether the alarm has been set or not; white for ON and dark for OFF.
The dial is overly perfect and simple to peruse. The solitary conceivable defect is the way that the situation of the alarm show has implied that the Patek Philippe logo must be moved into the sub-dial. The new area is certainly not a serious deal, yet it makes things look somewhat swarmed down there. The utilization of somewhat more modest text dimension may have assisted with this however clearly, the name on the dial is vital as well, so it’s a sensitive adjusting act.
Adjusting and setting all the capacities is done by means of the crown at 4 o’clock and the three extra pushers. There’s additionally a corrector for the date somewhere in the range of 6 and 7 o’clock. I’ll speak more about the esthetics of this arrangement in a second yet for the time being, we should zero in on functionality.
Firstly, the crown at 4 o’clock has 3 distinct places of operation:
- pushed in – go clockwise to wind the alarm spring, turn counter-clockwise to wind the mainspring;
- pulled mostly out – set the alarm time in either bearing in 15-minute increments;
- pulled that full distance – set the time in either course, with balance stop.
Above that, at 2 o’clock, is the pusher used to actuate and deactivate the alarm. The alarm is naturally deactivated whenever it’s done tolling yet you can stop it by utilizing this pusher. On the other side of the case are two extra pushers at 8 and 10 o’clock. These permit you to move the nearby time hour hand forward or in reverse in one-hour increases. Each of the three pushers are fitted with Patek’s licensed Interlock security framework. This implies that before a pusher can be impelled, it should be opened with a quarter turn. A quarter turn the other way bolts the pusher again.
Despite its somewhat more easygoing, flying motivated appearance, it’s essential to recall the Ref. 5520P is a Grand Complication. In that capacity, while you may at first expect the case is steel, it is really platinum, the most valuable of the respectable metals and furthermore quite possibly the most hard to machine. Its measurements are very much like that of the Ref. 5524, with a width of 42.2 mm and a stature of 11.57 mm – a small portion of a millimeter more to a great extent, that’s about it. That is especially amazing when you consider the amount more complex the development inside is.
The case is cold-shaped with a high-weight press from a clear in platinum, trailed by accuracy machining and expand cleaning in-house. The bezel and hauls are incorporated into the situation, with the previous being somewhat inclined while the last are marginally bended for a comfortable fit on the wrist. Likewise with all Patek Philippe platinum watches, there is a precious stone set for the situation flank at 6 o’clock. As anyone might expect, the case is totally beautiful in the metal. The completing is sublime and the scrupulousness impeccable.
It’s likewise important that this is Patek Philippe’s first ringing timepiece with a water-safe case. To guarantee greatest sound quality, the gong for the alarm is joined straightforwardly to the caseband rather than the development. This aides prevents the sound waves from being muted by the water-safe case. By chance, locking or unlocking the pushers doesn’t influence the case’s water-resistance.
There is obviously still one (or rather four) glaring issues at hand that can’t be overlooked; the three pushers and one crown. From the outset, the plan is very standing up to, overpowering even. I don’t actually believe there’s some other method to depict it. Is it out of line? It’s hard to say. From one viewpoint, you could make the contention that this plan is more even and therefore more adjusted than the Ref. 5524. Then again… Let’s simply say this watch has been inconceivably polarizing on purpose. To be reasonable it’s not as uncomfortable on the wrist as you would anticipate. Simply don’t anticipate having the option to quietly slide it away under your shirt cuff.
The Ref. 5520P is worn on a matte dark calfskin leather lash, hand-sewed with contrast sewing. Comfortable against the skin, it’s the correct decision for what is now an eye-getting watch.
Overall, I found the Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520P to be an amazing and interesting watch. Here is a profoundly complex terrific complication timepiece that is entirely legitimate and simple to work. It’s likewise invigorating to see something somewhat more offbeat as far as the plan. I don’t cherish the four pusher/crown set-up however then once more, I’m not the intended interest group for this sort of watch. Cost is CHF 200,000 and accessibility will be, as you can envision, limited.