At long last! We might not be a majority, but there are plenty of women out there who appreciate the miniature mechanical delights of a watch but are reluctant to settle for a men’s watch tidied up with stones. MB&F has broken its 14-year-long tradition of masterminding complex, outwardly arresting men’s watches and taken its first step into ladylike territory. The Legacy Machine Flying T is faithful to the brand’s way of thinking of 3D ‘spectacle’ and stages a flying tourbillon in the center of the dial and an intriguing hours and minutes dial roosted at a point at 7 o’clock, all protected under an articulated crystal arch. Offered with a variety of jewel settings, the watch figures out how to be female without being ‘affected’. We were adequately fortunate to have a few involved time with the dark polish dial model, and this is what we discovered.
Flying into ladylike territory
In a short video that accompanies the delivery (on top of this article), Max Büsser talks about the inspiration behind the watch and the critical women in his day to day existence. “It was time to get out of my comfort zone,” says Büsser “and create something for a lady. Furthermore, I understood I had no clue about what a lady wants.” Instead of trying to make something they might want, Büsser chose to encapsulate the “energy and tastefulness” he associates with these women. He likewise chose to maintain a strategic distance from the ‘unisex sexual orientation drinking spree’ vogue and market the watch solely for women. The jewels, he clarifies, are a declaration that this watch is unmistakably made for women.
Although the watch has a place with the Legacy Machine family and certain identity traits have made the transition – including the round case, the protuberant domed glass on the dial and the exemplary hours and minutes counter with Roman numerals and blued hands – the look couldn’t be more different. Starting with the case, whose lone similarity with the men’s LM is the fact that it is round. Estimating a wearable 38.5mm, the 18k white gold case features a steeply cambered bezel and thin elongated carries. Taking all things together three forms of the Flying T, the case is set with diamonds.
Either brilliant-cut or baguette-cut jewels decorate the sides of the case, the hauls, and the two crowns. The pair of crowns add a satisfying symmetry to the case and you can perceive how the flanks are tapered and squeezed to accommodate the crowns, a delightful ladylike detail. All things considered, the case is ladylike, exemplary with a certain demeanor of majesty. When seen from the side – with its height of 20mm – you can truly appreciate the articulated vault of the sapphire crystal. Like a ringer container exhibiting an exotic species, your eyes gravitate to its interior where the complex segment construction of the tourbillon is revealed.
Energy and Asymmetry on the dial
The second mandate Büsser set himself was to recreate the energy he appreciates in women. Moving in from the symmetry of the case we encounter an astounding, asymmetric dial layout with a ‘ventricular’ dial plate aperture in the center and extremely unique hours and minutes counter positioned at 7 o’clock.
Since flying tourbillons are just secured at their base, they tend to be set securely inside the movement. MB&F’s watch is a ‘flying flying’ tourbillon that, thanks to its section construction, literally comes to up from the supporting structure to play out its hypnotic one-minute gyrations underneath your actual eyes, almost touching the domed glass. Another female touch is the huge jewel sitting on the upper scaffold of the tourbillon cage.
We had the dark polish dial model for our active time with the watch. The inky dark polish gives a unique foundation to the animation on board the dial and recreates an outer-spacey-dark opening feel, in tune with the way of thinking of the brand. The little hours and minutes counter likewise features a lacquered dial (white or dark relying upon model) and is slanted at a 50º point with the goal that lone the wearer can consult the time. Putting the dial at this odd point presented difficulties for MB&F’s watchmakers and cone shaped cog wheels – like those utilized in HM6 and HM9 Flow – were utilized to transmit torque starting with one plane then onto the next. The blued hands have likewise been given a ladylike makeover and have adopted a squiggly, serpentine shape. The stone setting on the full-set models – either baguette or brilliant-cut jewels is spectacular and you can appreciate the manner in which the jewels embrace the descending bend of the dial.
The sun powered motif – produced using red gold, titanium and platinum – you can see on the caseback swings in time to the automatic rotor and shrouds most of the view on the movement, which is more than compensated for by the action on the dial. The movement of the Legacy Machine Flying T takes solutions from both the HM6 arrangement and the HM7 Aquapod . In contrast to most watch movements, the LM Flying T motor uses a vertical layout permitting the flying tourbillon to project strikingly past the dial plate. An additional test was the state of the upper tourbillon carriage with more mass on one side than the other. To compensate, a counterweight is covered up under the tourbillon carriage. Another exceptionally attractive feature is the four-day power save, one of the highest in MB&F’s portfolio.
We need to extol Büsser for following his instincts and understanding that an ever increasing number of women appreciate and want mechanical complications but don’t really want to forfeit on the femininity quotient. The watch comes through on all fronts; it respects the idiosyncratic DNA of MB&F, it puts on an entrancing show, and it is ladylike without straying into value and affectation. What’s more, although Büsser might differ with us, the baguette-set model could chip away at a man’s wrist. Like a miniature mechanical sculpture, the utilization of volume and kinesis add a fascinating and bizarre measurement to this watch that won’t pass by unnoticed.
As mentioned, the Legacy Machine Flying T will be dispatched in three forms, all in white gold and set with precious stones and presented on calfskin or alligator straps with a 18k white gold pin clasp, likewise set with jewels. The dark finish dial and case set with brilliant-cut precious stones that we audited in this article will retail for CHF 108,000 (excl. VAT), the completely set brilliant-cut jewels model for CHF 135,000 (excl. VAT) and the full set baguette-cut jewels model for CHF 298,000 (excl. VAT). More details at www.mbandf.com .