As a purveyor to regal customers around the world of the most wonderfully finished tickers, repeaters and automata, Pierre Jaquet Droz comprehended the significance of making a terrific early introduction, both precisely and esthetically. Pushing ahead 300 years as expected, the brand actually puts tremendous accentuation on high quality abilities and has its own personal Ateliers d’Art workshop in the La Chaux-de-Fonds. The furthest down the line treats to rise up out of the workshop are these his and hers models brightened with Grand Feu enamel and glimmering paillonné themes: the ‘Fleur de Lys’ Grande Seconde Paillonné and the ladies’ ‘Fleur de Vie’ Petite Heure Minute Paillonné, both restricted to eight pieces.
Since 2011, the Ateliers d’Art have sharpened tribal abilities and creative strategies to keep up the soul of Jaquet Droz alive. Abilities like smaller than usual work of art, chiseling, etching and all orders of enameling (champlevé, Grand Feu cloisonné, plique a jour, grisaille, Geneva procedure, paillonné) are utilized to adorn the minor materials offered by a dial. Regardless of progress on such countless fronts, enameling is as flighty a craftsmanship as it generally has been. Enameling, which is the way toward intertwining layers of ground glass onto metal utilizing a furnace, is nearer to speculative chemistry than a science since so numerous things can turn out badly during the different firings: cracking, bubbles shaping on a superficial level, shrinking, dust particles demolishing the enamel, etc.
The dials of both these models are brightened with fragile flower themes, the bigger model with ‘Fleur de Lys’ (an image used to address French eminence) and the more modest women’s model with a ‘Fleur de Vie’ design (a holy mathematical image of life composed of covering circles utilizing the brilliant proportion). Prior to continuing to the specialty of paillonné enameling, the initial step includes the etching of a sunray design straightforwardly on to the gold dial utilizing guillochage. When the example has been hand-engraved, it is covered with significantly more than one layer of blue enamel and then terminated at a high temperature in the oven as the Grand Feu procedure directs. The dial is presently prepared for the significantly really demanding craft of paillonné enameling, which includes the use of skinny leaves of gold or silver to make surface and light and fixing them from the components with clear enamel.
The word paillonné gets from the small metallic paillons – the cut-out metallic pieces – that are clung to the enamel surface to make the theme. For this situation, each minuscule gold paillon is cut from a slight sheet of gold leaf and applied by hand with the guide of a magnifying instrument. To remove the individual shapes from the slim sheet of gold, the craftsman depends on an apparatus with the ideal shape at its tip and tenderly mallets the top of the instrument to extricate the shape from the gold sheet.
Some craftsmans concede that they need to hold their breath while applying the little shards of metal to consistent their hand. When the plan is prepared, the surface is blessed to receive another layer of clear enamel and terminated. This clear layer of enamel shields the dial from harming light and outside components epitomizing the extreme blue shade of the enamel and the radiance of the gold paillons for quite a long time to come.
Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonné
The foundation assortment at Jaquet Droz, the Grande Seconde gets the VIP treatment in this staggering 18k red gold Grand Feu blue enamel and paillonné model enriched with a fleur de lys theme. Portrayed by the exquisite figure-eight plan of this assortment, the top dial shows the hours and minutes with Roman numerals while the lower and bigger dial at the base is devoted to the (enormous) seconds. The trademark off-focused presentation is set against a silver opaline dial and applied to the dial in a gold casing. The case estimates 43mm and is appended to the wrist with a handmade blue gator lash and a 18k red gold ardillon clasp. A sapphire gem caseback uncovers the programmed development with its 18k red gold swaying weight and exquisite finishes.
Quick facts: 43mm breadth – 18k red gold, cleaned – 30m water-opposition – blue Grand Feu and paillonné enamel dial – silver opaline sub-dials – type 2663.P, programmed – 28,800vph – 68h force hold – silicon balance spring and bed horns – gold rotor – ref. J003033437 – restricted to 8 pieces – CHF 43,200
Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonné
This ladies’ 35mm model is housed in a 18k red gold case with an amazing setting of 232 jewels on the bezel, carries and flanks of the case. Like the bigger model, the dial has been blessed to receive blue Grand Feu enamel and a fleur de strive design made with gold paillonné enamel. The off-focused hours and minutes counter is produced using white mother-of-pearl and is set inside a red gold appliqué and applied to the dial at 12 o’clock. Outfitted with a programmed development with a comfortable 68-hour power hold, the type can be seen through the sapphire caseback alongside its refined completions and red gold wavering weight. The watch is given a coordinating blue croc lash with a red gold ardillon buckle.
Quick facts: 35mm breadth – 18k red gold, cleaned – 232 precious stones (1.23 carats) – 30m water-safe – blue Grand Feu and paillonné enamel dial – white mother-of-pearl applied dial for quite a long time – type 2653.P, programmed – 28,800vph – 68h force hold – silicon balance spring and bed horns – gold rotor – ref. J005003244 – restricted to 8 pieces – CHF 45,900
More subtleties at www.jaquet-droz.com .