Earlier this year, at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Jaeger-LeCoultre held nothing back for its ladies’ watches. The brand’s greatly pined for Rendez-Vous assortment (delivered seven years prior in 2012 and made only for ladies) was top on the rundown when it came to new releases. Of specific note were the high gems pieces that displayed new dials, new moon stage plates and wonderful prong settings.
Always a darling complication, the day/night complication becomes the dominant focal point in the new Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewelry watch. Made in either 18k white gold or 18k rose gold, the new forms include an extraordinary prong setting of precious stones. Prong setting isn’t ordinarily utilized in watchmaking for a large group of reasons, including the way that if not executed with outrageous exactness and amazing craftsmanship, the prong could catch clothing.
However, prong setting – wherein a gold opposite pyramid-molded setting holds the precious stone set up at the top through a progression of numerous prongs or hooks – is quite possibly the most wonderful and breathtaking settings in the adornments world. It permits light to come in from all points, thereby empowering unimaginable shine and shimmer. This, alongside the accuracy needed to appropriately execute a prong setting, is one of the principle reasons Jaeger-LeCoultre went to prong setting for the new Rendez-Vous Night & Day High Jewelry watch.
As referenced, prong setting is no simple accomplishment. It requires the craftsman to exclusively set every jewel onto the top of the cone-formed base setting and then cautiously close different prongs over the precious stone to guarantee the jewel is secure. The prongs resemble hooks that hold the precious stone set up. They should be consummately collapsed down and cleaned to ensure the precious stone as well as to try not to catch things. The time has come devouring and careful work. The diamond setters at the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshops in Le Sentier are aces at their art. In a colossal, completely windowed room, they work their craft – idealizing settings that range from prong to day off, and even channel setting of baguettes.
Each of the two variants of the Rendez-Vous Night & Day High Jewelry watches is fastidiously set with 186 precious stones that structure three columns (two on the bezel and one on the dial) for a sparkling impact. The bezel flaunts 126 precious stones in two columns (and highlights more modest and bigger jewels). There is a middle column of 47 precious stones that shapes an inward ring on the dial, too. The carries are set with another 12 precious stones and the crown holds a solitary modified cabochon jewel. Altogether, the watch brags 3.52 carats diamonds.
The prong setting gives the watch an unmistakable demeanor of qualification. It looks magnificent on the wrist and the prong settings are nearly pretty much as smooth as silk. The 36mm size is truly wearable, also. The watches are fueled by the programmed type 898B/1 that is furnished with 38 hours of force hold. The development is likewise hand completed and finished by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s elevated expectations and is obvious through the sapphire caseback. Each watch includes a mother-of-pearl dial with a sickle molded opening at 6 o’clock to show the moon and stars or the sun for the Day & Night work. Lashes are either beige or blue crocodile leather. While I can’t envision anybody would bring this excellence into the water, it is water-impervious to 50 metres.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewelry will be evaluated at USD 47,800 in white gold and USD 45,400 in pink gold. More subtleties at www.jaeger-lecoultre.com .
This article has been composed by Roberta Naas, organizer of A Timely Perspective ; and writer of six books on watches.