If you have been following the watchmaking scene in the course of recent years, you will be acquainted with the resurrection of Ferdinand Berthoud. Restoring the name of probably the best watchmaker, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his group have shown a significant capacity to astound and stun us with each of their creations.
The brand’s first present day creation, the Chronomètre FB1 was granted the Aiguille d’Or at the GPHG 2016, the Oscars of watchmaking. The model was initially introduced in white gold with titanium drags (FB1.1) and pink gold and earthenware carries (FB1.2). Divulged on the event of SIHH 2019, the ‘Oeuvre d’Or’ collection comprises of pink or white gold (jewel set interestingly) restricted versions showing selective hand-applied decoration.
The pyramid etching enhancing the development of these restricted release watches is motivated by Ferdinand Berthoud’s galactic pocket observe No. 3, a watch amassed and changed in Paris in 1806 by his understudy, Jean Martin. (This pocket watch is currently essential for the L.U.CEUM collection set up by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in Fleurier). The pyramid enrichment is applied to the gold scaffolds and is engraved completely by hand. An imperceptibly screwed cartouche bears the sign “Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre Suisse 45 rubis“. The show caseback offers an unhampered perspective on the development that is created and completed to a level that is only from time to time seen. The outcome is particular and entrancing to behold.
Turning the watch over, the hand-engraved patinated gold dial is no less tremendous. Each dial is fastidiously hand-grained with a graver and afterward got done with a rocker to make sparkling reflections. The anglage of the chamfers outlining the openings cut into the dial are inclined flawlessly. The inscription ‘haut/bas’ (up/down) for the force save and ‘Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre, Val-de-Travers (the valley where the brand’s workshop is based), Suisse’ is trailed by the individual restricted release number.
A detail that is additionally roused by the Ferdinand Berthoud’s cosmic pocket observe No. 3, the hands of the pink gold rendition are blued gold for the hours, the minutes and the force hold sign, and, blued bronze for the compass seconds hand. For the white gold restricted release, these are dark nickel-plated gold and bronze.
As with past forms of the Chronomètre FB1, the octagonal case estimates 44mm x 13mm and is propelled by Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine timekeepers. Interestingly, the pink gold case is made solely in this metal with no between haul embed in an alternate material. The white gold adaptation is pearl set, with roll precious stones embellishing the crown and case flanks, rather than the windows utilized for past versions.
Inside, the grand type FB-T.FC3 highlights a column development, the exemplary engineering utilized in marine chronometers. All parts are fitted in the middle of two plates protected together with columns, rather than having a plate and extensions screwed firmly together. For upgraded exactness, it is managed by a curiously large tourbillon driven by a suspended fusée-and-chain system. The last serves to convey steady power to the escapement all through the running season of the development. The force save pointer depends on a ruby-roller laying on a portable going here and there, to show an exact estimation. The barrel is fitted with a Maltese cross stop-work to forestall overwinding. From a specialized viewpoint, the type FB-T.FC3 comprises no less than 1,119 sections. It runs at 21,600 vibrations each hour with a 53-hour power hold. The accuracy of every development is confirmed by the COSC.
The Ferdinand Berthoud ‘Oeuvre d’Or’ collection comprises of two restricted and numbered versions of five watches. Cost is set at CHF 282,500 for the white gold precious stone set variant and CHF 258,000 for the pink gold rendition. More subtleties on www.ferdinandberthoud.ch .