On the event of the launch of H. Moser & Cie. X Bucherer Blue Editions in Schaffhausen, we had the chance to plunk down with Edouard Meylan, the brand CEO. The Meylan family-possessed company makes around 1,500 watches each year with Moser and fabricates more than 50,000 hairsprings/collections each year with Precision Engineering AG (for H. Moser & Cie. and for third-parties). It was the ideal opportunity for us to sit and converse with Edouard and to have answers to certain inquiries we had about the brand, its exceptional communication procedure and its products.
How were Moser’s Bucherer Blue Editions born?
We have been working with Bucherer since 2006. We began with only one point of deals, then through their whole organization in 2010. The choice was taken to quit retailing Moser in a couple of points of deals to zero in on where it truly appeared well and good: Switzerland, Austria and Paris. We are currently during the time spent reintroducing the brand to Bucherer’s stores in Germany and in the UK given the positive pattern with Moser and the demand for our timepieces
I like to think that somehow we have been forerunners for Bucherer’s blue editions. We generally have a variety of extraordinary editions or one of a kind pieces in the pipeline. In 2015, we had the white gold Venturer with a ‘smoked’ blue dial that we were planning to show to chosen accomplices to find out how it would be gotten. When we introduced it to the Bucherer group, they were eager to the point that they requested to get it in selectiveness. A couple of months after the fact, as Bucherer began their Blue Editions, this Venturer turned out to be important for this assortment. So somehow, we might have assumed a part in the birth of these selective Blue Editions.
18 months prior, Bucherer recommended that we should offer something for women. Something extraordinary, in steel. That’s how the venture began for the new Moser Bucherer Blue Editions . We additionally needed to expand our Heritage assortment. We launched this assortment with a double cover interminable schedule valued at EUR 250,000. The Heritage Tourbillon and Moon were straightaway. The subsequent stage was to plan a three-hander with focal seconds. I don’t think that a gold variant with a finish dial would have been the right alternative. We needed something that would be more ‘Moser’, a blend among innovation and custom, with a fumé dial however with the Arabic numerals from historic Moser watches and with a fluted caseband.
Although it is a blue version, we thought we should have a dim dial, however we chipped away at the development with the blue rotor, the blue equilibrium wheel and rooster and the blue lining for the strap.
For the women’s watch, we often get comments that women love our watches despite the fact that occasionally these might be somewhat huge for them. Designing a women’s watch is certainly not a simple assignment. In any case, the time had come to do it. We thought it had to be calm and exquisite with a great deal of consideration regarding details.
Back to the Heritage three-hander, is this watch destined to become part of the Moser collection?
Why not? We will perceive how it is gotten. Today, it is select for Bucherer in this form. At Moser passage level costs we just have the Pioneer in steel (as a non-restricted version). I think the Heritage complements the Pioneer, being drastically unique. The Pioneer is truly present day. Both watches retail at a similar cost however pull in various clients.
What defines Moser watches?
Moser has a 190-year history and yet, it was renewed in 2002 (and officially in 2005). From this subsequent birth, I think we are presently reaching development. We are pleased with the street up until this point. Without this ‘rebel’ side of Moser, we would not be where we are presently. We have an enduring practice, a rich history however we need to bring something innovative, extraordinary and current in everything we do, whether for item or marketing. It is truly significant that these go hand in hand. Here and there, it is somewhat dubious, yet this is Moser.
How significant is independence?
Well, this is truly significant, from a free enterprise and manufacturing viewpoint. However, you are consistently reliant on somebody. We are independent as a brand however we are happy to be reliant on accomplices like Bucherer. We are a little company and it is an honor to work with the biggest retailer on the planet. I accept this is conceivable on the grounds that Bucherer is additionally an independent family-possessed company and we share similar qualities. This is truly significant for me. We were unable to do what we are doing without such partners.
What is the eventual fate of watch fairs?
I understand the choice of certain brands. Each brand brings up this equivalent issue each year. Does it bode well to go to watch fairs? For Moser, it addresses more than 20% of our marketing financial plan. There is a great deal we could do with this. In the end, it’s every one of the a matter of profit from investment. The absolute biggest brands needn’t bother with retailers. They have their own shops and have sufficient spending plan to coordinate occasions in each country. For us it is extraordinary. We actually need to develop our organization. In this regard, we need freedoms to meet retailers without any problem. It isn’t that simple to venture to the far corners of the planet to meet each retailer. In this regard, watch fairs are interesting stages. The equivalent goes for media. I’m truly happy that question and answer sessions will be coordinated again this year for the brands of the Carré des Horlogers at SIHH.
For Basel, this is a more modest investment yet with huge returns. Our cooperation with other brands, in a setting close to Baselworld, is astounding. We oversee everything ourselves and expenses are leveled out. We need somewhat more space and there will be one brand less in our gathering, however we will be there again and I hope for a long time to come.
What is your interpretation of the Swiss Made discussion, a couple of months after your ‘Make Swiss Made Great Again’ initiative?
(Editor’s note, in 2017, H. Moser censured the Swiss Made enactment and created the Swiss Mad watch, with a case produced using cheese )
The certainty that it produced a discussion and opened the eyes of numerous individuals on Swiss Made was critical. This is what we needed. We realized it is hard to change the enactment however to get customers to understand what is in question and that there is more straightforwardness is as of now a ‘little triumph’. I think this is only the beginning. The extravagance industry, the watch industry need straightforwardness. We need to make names. The Geneva Seal isn’t sufficient in light of the fact that it is linked to a particular region of creation. We can’t make a Schaffhausen Seal. We need however many brands as would be prudent to be involved. We could think of a Swiss Made mark at various levels.
What is the best challenge for Moser?
The conveyance. This is why our partnership with Bucherer is so significant. Today we make between1,200 to 1,500 watches each year. Our desire is to reach 3,000 watches each year. We can’t do this with our present organization. We need to expand our retailer organization and this isn’t simple. It is highly competitive, the law of the wilderness prevails.
Do you work straightforwardly with retailers or through distributors?
It depends. We have merchants in Japan or in Italy. We have our own appropriation in Hong Kong and Dubai. The thought is to do likewise in the US, to be nearer to the retailers and end-customer. With a creation of 1,500 watches each year, we figure out how to know and communicate with a large portion of our clients, to make a genuine relationship. This is genuine extravagance. Extravagance isn’t just about items. Today individuals hope for something else: a relationship and administration. I accept this is what we have figured out how to make up until now, with our group. We are convinced we have to continue along this path.