The Endeavor Tourbillon Concept is an object of entrancing excellence. Stripped back to its basics, the bare, without logo dial with its terrific fumé finish offers a tempting exhibition of the flying tourbillon. It is an arousing watch that consummately manifestes the philosophy that less can mean a whole parcel more. Moderation is a word that gets utilized a ton to depict H.Moser & Cie’s. approach to watchmaking, where complications are returned to and shown in keenly straightforward manners. Who can fail to remember the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Concept watch that took ‘moderation’ to extraordinary heights with its stripped dial?
The quest for uncovered essentials
Once again Moser receives the pared-down approach with its Endeavor Tourbillon Concept watch, which was introduced at the SIHH 2018 out of a white gold case. The purposeful decimation of any unnecessary interruptions on the dial allows you to focus on the turns of the one-minute tourbillon, demonstrating that complications don’t should be dressed to dazzle. What’s more, respecting the watch very close affirms my suspicion that Moser truly realizes how to catch a contemporary, cool, vibe that is exquisite and smooth enough to withstand the trial of time.
The smooth forms of the Endeavor’s 42mm white gold case are welcoming to the touch and delightfully finished with polished and brushed surfaces. As Meylan calls attention to, “the instance of the Endeavor family is not quite the same as other Moser models and highlights a bend at the back to sit better on the wrist. It is our high-end case held for complications like the ceaseless schedule. With its bended back, the ergonomics of the watch are enhanced making it incredibly comfortable to wear.”
Note: A hardened steel case doesn’t convert into a lower value tag… As the brother of the white gold Endeavor Tourbillon Concept model with its crazy blue dial we are presently looking at, a steel release with a rhodium-plated dial and blued hands is additionally accessible. Try not to be tricked into thinking that a steel case implies a considerable decrease in cost. Truth be told, the steel adaptation is simply CHF 6,000 cheaper than the gold model. It isn’t about expense cutting however enriching the watch with an alternate character and disposition. Speaking to Edouard Meylan the other day, he referenced another conclusive factor that affected the choice of steel: “In addition to the fact that steel is viable and utilitarian, it likewise reacts to the way that, for strict reasons, men can’t don gold in the Middle East – and this is a solid market for Moser.”
The hallmark H. Moser fumé dial
Forget about logos or brand names; the greatest giveaway that you are before a H. Moser watch is the dazzling fumé dial. Composed of various and extending shades of shading – in this specific case, a bright blue place with hazier hues on the edges, officially called a Funky Blue fumé dial – the fumé impact is enhanced by the sunburst design with fine beams that radiate from the middle towards the border of the dial. The combination of the tightened and slightly bended polished hands against the smokey blue dial is very effective.
According to Meylan, “95% of Moser’s deals are watches with fumé dials. Like every quality dial, they are complex to make and you need to guarantee truly stable conditions. Humidity, temperature and even wind stream can influence the final product and change the shade of a batch. Envision attempting to disclose that to a client!”
“85% of the estimation of a watch is in its development,” Edouard Meylan
The staggering scenery offers route to the superstar playing out its hypnotic one-minute turns in a huge opening at 6 o’clock. Moser’s watchmakers have in a real sense cut a hole into the dial to uncover the tourbillon complication. No extravagant lines or roundabout edge, simply a huge sinkhole that keeps your consideration bolted on the tourbillon. Controlled by in-house type HMC 804 and fitted with a twofold hairspring (likewise made by Moser, and potentially the hardest component of a mechanical watch to make), the programmed development has a 3-day power hold and a bi-directional rotor that has been skeletonised to allow you to appreciate the movement.
But perhaps the most smart piece of the development is the secluded tourbillon escapement. The thought is that, similar to a fitting, the tourbillon module can be effectively separated from its confine and adjusted by a watchmaker. “The majority of Moser’s watches have a measured escapement. The thought is that you take out the screws, take out the escapement, and get it adjusted,” clarifies Meylan. “What’s more, we applied this equivalent guideline to the tourbillon. You should simply eliminate the two screws, and the whole tourbillon module can be taken out. The preferred position is that in nations like Russia, where sending a watch back to Switzerland to be adjusted methods paying huge measures of expense, and getting a tourbillon fixed by a nearby watchmaker is close to unimaginable, we can send our client a secluded tourbillon substitution, and the issue is solved!”
A restricted release of 20 pieces, the 42mm Endeavor Tourbillon Concept in white gold comes with a mark Moser kudu leather lash and costs CHF 69,000. More subtleties on www.h-moser.com .