H. Moser & Cie. delivered the Endeavor Flying Hours in 2018 , offering a refreshing and contemporary interpretation of a planetary showcase and the brand’s initial invasion into non-customary time portrayal. Acclaimed for its capacity to rework complications in cleverly straightforward manners and stage them in sensational, moderate settings, Moser’s interpretation of a planetary showcase of hours and minutes was unique and exceptionally on top of the brand’s DNA. Although every one of the 60 bits of the first restricted release were sold out during the SIHH 2018, some reprimanded the clarity of the watch (more on this later). During the 2019 watch reasonable in Basel, Moser presented two new white gold restricted version models of the Endeavor Flying Hours, one with a hallmark Cosmic Green dial and the other with a captivating blue dial highlighting a novel material known as Globolight XP© that makes the three hour circles sparkle in the dark.
A tight-weave family
As all our MONOCHROME perusers know, H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence are sister companies of MELB Holding (drove by Georges-Henri Meylan) and appreciate a two-route exchange of technology that benefits each brand commonly. To be exact, it is a three-way exchange; MELB Holding additionally has Precision Engineering AG, a producer of escapements and equilibrium springs, under its belt.
The HMC 806 type fueling the Endeavor Flying Hours epitomizes the collaboration among Moser and Hautlence today. In view of Moser’s programmed type HMC200, Hautlence was in charge of the changes for the planetary presentation. What is fascinating to note is that both companies received the technology in 2018 to deliver planetary watch models – but with various type names and as various as chalk and cheese. Moser came out with the Endeavor Flying Hours and Hautlence with the HL Vagabonde 01 & 02.
It’s certain that both the Moser and Hautlence models performed alright to return for a reprise this year with the HL Vagabonde 03 and Moser’s Endeavor Flying Hours in two diverse tone schemes.
The format of the dial is indistinguishable from the 2018 Flying Hours model and highlights a focal plate in sapphire gem to show the minutes with three circles for the hours masterminded underneath it. Dissimilar to most orbital hours that highlight a fixed moment scale situated underneath the turning hours, each of the four circles of the Endeavor are moving. The three hour circles with four cut out numerals on each plate (1,4,7,10 – 2,5,8,11 – 3,6,9,12) are mounted on individual tomahawks and turn on their own hub thanks to planetary cog wheels mounted on star wheels. To counsel the current time, the relating hour numeral is highlighted with a white foundation. The minutes, set in the middle and held set up by a trispoke connect, are shown on a 240° area and demonstrated by the little bolt at the highest point of each hour numeral.
Now, we should handle the issue of decipherability. You have to become acclimated to perusing this watch in light of the fact that, from the start, it tends to be very befuddling. For one, the hours are not put naturally and the current hour doesn’t spring up in a fixed situation on the dial. You have to hunt during the time marker showing a white foundation to establish the hour and, in certain light conditions, it isn’t in every case simple. There is another slightly confounding component to consider; as the current hour gives up the stage to the next hour, a time of 10 minutes slips by when both the first and succeeding hours show up all the while on the dial. That implies that for 10 minutes two numerals show up with white foundations. I understand this cover might have its doubters however once you overcome the ten-minute a dead zone, counseling the time becomes much more intuitive.
If you think about Moser’s provocatively bare Concept watches, specifically the stunning Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon that wowed the groups at Basel this year, you will concur that Moser’s watches are more about the exhibition, the masterfulness, the esthetics and the delight of wearing a flawlessly executed and unique watch than giving nuclear to-the-second accuracy readings. Which isn’t to say Moser’s watches are not precise… a long way from it, yet that is another article in itself.
The 2019 models of the Endeavor Flying Hours are launched in a mark Moser Cosmic Green fumé dial and a Superluminova Blue model, which additionally has a flawless fumé foundation. The blue model addresses to a greater extent a curiosity than the Cosmic Green in light of the fuse of a creative material treated with Super-LumiNova that radiates a phosphorescent blue glow.
The puzzling shine of Globolight XP
To improve the intelligibility of the watch in helpless light conditions, Moser has accepted a forefront material made by Xeno Print to supply the Superluminova Blue model with a suffering gleam. Globolight XP© is a brilliant material (not a paint) that can be cut into a wide range of shapes and sizes: numerals, markers, base plates, chapter rings, crown rings, hands, balance spans and so on for appliqués on watch dials and even movements.
Patented by Zeno Print AG in 2016, not exclusively can Globolight be cut in an endless assortment of shapes, it is treated with Super-LumiNova to offer a wide assortment of brilliant tones and a choice of light force. The three hour plates on the blue model change significantly as indicated by the light. In daylight, the circles have Moser’s unique Funky Blue tone, yet when the light diminishes, the hour plates and the numerals on the moment track put on the Globolight show.
A natural case and movement
Both models are housed in 18k white gold Endeavor cases with a width of 42mm and a height of 12.3mm. The liquid forms of the case are finished with brushed and polished surfaces and the slight arch on the back and short slanting carries allow the watch to sit totally on the wrist.
The development is equivalent to the one utilized in the debut 2018 model and depends on Moser’s programmed HMC 200 type with a focal red gold rotor. Hautlence adjusted the development by changing the conventional focal triple-hub into a progression of star wheels and the type was renamed C806. Exactly the same type, renamed HTL 205-1, is utilized to control the Hautlence Vagabonde although the distinctions can be valued in the finishes and on the swaying weights.
Another highlight of the C806 is the bi-directional winding framework controlled by a strong red gold incompletely skeletonised wavering weight offering a force hold of three days. The escapement and hairspring are likewise delivered ‘in-house’ by Precision Engineering AG. The finishes on the development are delightful, including Moser twofold stripes on the scaffolds, roundabout graining on the base plate and inclined and polished edges.
As a fanatic of the brand, I have to concede that the Endeavor Flying Hours didn’t speak to me with the instantaneousness of other Moser models. However, taking opportunity to decipher the format and its characteristics turned out to be important for the good times. The way that the hours show up in strange spots around the dial – and the significantly really perturbing appearance of two particular hour markers during the 10-minute progress stage – adds complexity and character to the watch. Clearly, at CHF 35,000, this isn’t a watch for the unenlightened however will interest gatherers who make the most of Moser’s refreshing, contemporary and flawlessly executed interpretation of exemplary watchmaking.
Price and availability
The Endeavor Flying Hours Superluminova Blue and Cosmic Green models come with hand-stitched gator leather lashes with a 18k white gold pin clasp. They are restricted releases of 100 pieces each and will retail for CHF 35,000. For more data, kindly counsel www.h-moser.com .