As consistently, the watchmaking business is commending imagination and inventiveness with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) or the alleged Oscars of the Watchmaking Industry – see the report for the 2017 release here . The most developed, the most inventive or the most innovative watches will be granted prizes at the GPHG 2018. Before the service happens (November 9, 2018), we’re bringing you, hot off the press, the complete rundown of finalists chose by the Jury. Just six watches stay in every one of the twelve classes (be that as it may, for certain new ones this year) and here they are – and furthermore our forecasts for each category.
Women’s watches comprising the accompanying signs just: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power save, exemplary moon stage; might be embellished with a limit of 8-carats’ worth of gemstones.
- Bovet 1822 Amadéo Fleurier 39 Fan
- Bvlgari Lvcea Tubogas Skeleton
- Chanel Boy-Friend Skeleton
- Chaumet Laurier
- Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Twist Classic
- Piaget Possession Lapis Lazuli
This year, this class for the most part comprises the “big ones” – companies that are known for their aptitude in ladies’ watches: Bvlgari, Chanel, Chaumet and Piaget. The two others, despite the fact that satisfying, probably won’t have similar possibilities. Our estimate for the GPHG 2018 would be the Chanel Boy-Friend Skeleton – combining pleasant watchmaking abilities and a plan plainly “dans l’air du temps“, both current and marginally masculine.
Women’s watches that are wonderful as far as their mechanical imagination and complexity, featuring a wide range of horological complications and classic and/or creative signs (for example yearly schedule, interminable schedule, condition of time, moon stage, computerized or retrograde time display, world time, double time or other sorts of models) and don’t fit the meaning of the Ladies’ and Mechanical Exception categories.
- Beauregard Dahlia C1
- Bvlgari Diva Finissima Minute Repeater
- Chaumet Espiègleries
- Ludovic Ballouard Pink Hours
- Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Tourbillon Galaxy
- Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium
For the GPHG 2018 “ladies’ complication” classification, we’d love the jury to give the honor to the Bvlgari Diva Finissima Minute Repeater. It is magnificently planned as well as highlights a staggering development, the most slender moment repeater type – which is likewise found in the Octo Finissimo. Presently, that’s genuine watchmaking for ladies.
Men’s watches comprising the accompanying signs just: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power hold, exemplary moon stage; might be enhanced with 5-carats’ worth of gemstones.
- Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain
- De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels
- H. Moser & Cie. Attempt Flying Hours
- MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement
- Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendrier 1942
- Voutilainen 217QRS
The GPHG 2018 “men’s” classification will be intense this year… five of the watches are made by autonomous watchmakers and just one has been delivered by a “mainstream” brand. The Jury is unmistakably communicating something specific here, with a wish to commend the excellence of hand-completed watches. Intense call, yet we’d say that the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain gets a few opportunities here, as it is especially completed and celebrates conventional watchmaking skills.
Men’s watches that are momentous as far as their mechanical inventiveness and complexity, featuring a wide range of horological complications and exemplary or potentially innovative indications (for example yearly schedule, never-ending schedule, condition of time, moon stage, advanced or retrograde time display, world time, double time or other kinds of models) and don’t fit the meaning of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
- Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
- Girard-Perregaux Neo Tourbillon With Three Bridges Skeleton
- H. Moser & Cie. Attempt Perpetual Moon Concept Vantablack
- Krayon Everywhere Horizon
- Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar School Piece
- Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin
Another intense and heterogeneous class, with tourbillons, schedules, autonomous watchmakers, set up brands, vintage-situated watches, current skeleton pieces… It is elusive one champ here, as we can’t see numerous likenesses between these watches. In any case, the specialized accomplishment of Bvlgari with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic has the right to be granted at the GPHG 2018 (in this classification and in another…)
Mechanical watches comprising in any event one chronograph sign. Extra signs or potentially complications are admissible.
- Czapek L’Heure Bleue
- Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph
- Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition 100
- Singer Reimagined Singer Track1 Hong Kong Edition
- TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford
- Zenith Defy El Primero 21
The determination for the GPHG 2018 Chronograph classification highlights current, lively watches – except for the MB, which is more vintage-enlivened. Consequently, we’d like to go for the Singer Reimagined Singer Track1 Hong Kong Edition. As the GPHG praises the magnificence of watchmaking, we believe that this creative watch and its splendid development merit some more attention.
Mechanical watches comprising in any event one tourbillon or potentially an exceptional escapement as well as another advancement improving chronometry (accuracy timekeeping). Extra signs and additionally complications are admissible.
- David Candaux Half Hunter
- De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon
- Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 58
- TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph Tête de Vipère Chronometer
- Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel
- Zenith Defy Zero G
To be straightforward, not the most propelled choice this year in this classification. While it should be a festival of genuine advancement with an emphasis on exactness, it is populated by “simple tourbillon” watches, without the imaginative side we would have wanted to see. Two expectations: 1. On the off chance that the Jury center around excellent watchmaking, our conjecture is the David Candaux Half Hunter. 2. The jury could likewise zero in on openness, with the TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph, estimated under EUR 20,000.
Men’s as well as ladies’ watches including an uncommon instrument, like an imaginative or refined presentation, a robot, a striking or some other acoustic capacity, a belt-driven development or some other unique and additionally extraordinary horological concept.
- Andersen Genève & Konstantin Chaykin Automaton Joker
- Bovet 1822 Récital 22 Grand Récital
- Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon
- Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon
- Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie
- Ulysse Nardin Freak Vision
This classification should be a festival of the most trend setting innovations and the most complex watches. Thus, our decision will be the Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie… We can’t oppose a Grande Sonnerie, particularly when you see the development inside this watch!
Watches connected to the field of sports, whose capacities, materials and configuration are fit to proactive tasks. Smartwatches are acceptable in this category.
- Fabergé Visionnaire Chronograph Dynamique
- Montblanc 1858 Pocket Watch Limited Edition 100
- Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation
- TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf
- Ulysse Nardin Diver
- Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback
Again another heterogeneous choice for the GPHG 2018 Sports class, with chronographs, jump watches, currently planned pieces, vintage-motivated watches and even a pocket watch. Notwithstanding, for the magnificence of the re-version made by Seiko, we’ll give the Japanese firm and its Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation the award.
Watches showing extraordinary authority of the specialty of adornments and gemsetting, and furthermore recognized by the decision of stones.
- Antoine Preziuso Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons
- Bvlgari Serpenti High Jewellery
- Chanel Bouton de Camélia
- de Grisogono Cascata
- Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle d’Or
- Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle
Another classification overwhelmed by the “heavyweights” – Bvlgari, Chanel, de Grisogono, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels… As jewellery and gemsetting are plainly not our fields of mastery, we’d leave the decision to the GPHG 2018 jury here, despite the fact that those Bvlgari Serpenti High Jewellery and Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle are quite amazing pieces.
Watches showing outstanding dominance of one or a few imaginative procedures, for example, plating, lacquering, etching, guilloché (motor turning), skeleton-working, etc.
- Chaumet Ecritures de Chaumet – Limited version roused by Renoir’s work
- Fabergé Clover
- Hermès Arceau Robe du Soir
- Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Malachite
- Vacheron Constantin Les Aérostiers – Paris 1783
- Van’t Hoff Ballet in Blue
The GPHG 2018 “artistic crafts” classification is indeed overwhelmed by the large names, brands known for their authority of métiers d’art. In any case, these watches truly should be found in the metal to be judged and consequently, we incline toward the jury to choose here. Note: the Hermès, Piaget and Vacheron are very amazing watches…
Watches with a retail cost between CHF 4,000 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are permissible in this category.
- Habring² Doppel-Felix
- Konstantin Chaykin Clown
- Longines Record
- Ming 19,01
- Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur
- Vicenterra Tycho Brahe “série” T2 Anthra
Surprisingly this year, the greater part of the passages in the Petite Aiguille classification are not watches delivered by huge brands. Four of them are the consequence of free watchmakers’ innovativeness – Habring, Chaykin, Ming and Vicenterra. Therefore, we believe that the victor will be an outside the box and our decision is for the Habring² Doppel-Felix – for its recorded significance and on the grounds that it’s a split-seconds chronograph (for not exactly CHF 8,000…)
A new class this year. Watches with a retail cost under CHF 4,000. Smartwatches are acceptable in this category.
- Gorilla Watches Fastback Drift
- Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT streak setting
- Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 41 Update
- Reservoir Longbridge British Racing
- Seiko Presage Shippo Enamel
- Tudor Black Bay GMT
With this new class, the GPHG sends another reasonable message, more in accordance with latest things – a portion of the competing watches (despite the fact that not chose in the last run) have even been financed on Kickstarter… Looking at the six finalists, we imagine that the Seiko Presage, with its lacquer dial, makes an extraordinary competitor in this quality/value proportion category.
The best watch introduced in one of the twelve classes, which includes a contemporary re-version or reevaluation of a notable verifiable model.
Looking at the 72 watches introduced here, our decision for the Revival Prize will be the Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendrier 1942 – competing in the Men’s class. Its rich, retro plan and the equilibrium of its dial bodes well in this vintage context.
What about the “Aiguille d’Or”
Looking at past releases of the GPHG, we have discovered that predominantly uncommon, complex and top of the line watches are granted the “Aiguille d’Or” prize. Despite the fact that we’d love the jury to communicate something specific, with a more reasonable piece, the objective of the GPHG is likewise to celebrate delightful watches, advancement and creativity.
With this as a top priority, we imagine that the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, the most slender programmed watch and the most slender tourbillon observe even made has the right to get the Oscar this year.
Details about the GPHG 2018
- Date: the prize-giving service will be held at the Théatre du Leman, in Geneva, on November 9, 2018
- Exhibitions – where the competing watches will be shown – subtleties here
- Venice on September 28th
- Hong Kong on October tenth and 11th
- Singapore from October seventeenth to 21st
- Geneva Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (MAH) from November first to 14th
- Where to see the service live? Here, on MONOCHROME
- More details – www.gphg.org