After the debut tourbillon model (sent in different releases here , here or here ) and the new expansion of a complex controller form , Ferdinand Berthoud proceeds with the development of its wonderful Chronomètre watch. Still fueled by an in-house, hand-enriched tourbillon development, actually highlighting the alluring and uncommon fusée-and-chain steady power gadget, the brand adds a moon display on the Chronomètre FB 1L, revealed at Baselworld 2019. However, don’t anticipate that it should be only a little window with a moon stage. Things must be more complex than that.
The fundamentals are as yet present in this new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L (the “L” is for Lune, the French word for Moon). The case depends on the mark octagonal shape with secluded development. Regardless of its huge measurement on paper (it is in reality 44mm across), the watch is considerably more compact than you’d envision. Dial-wise, the regular signs with enormous focal seconds and off-focused hours and minutes are the place where they used to be and the general dial holds is interesting style, with the signs that are attached on the principle plate and not imprinted on a dial. The look is both collectible and present day at the equivalent time.
The Moon rendition of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre watch will be accessible in two distinct adaptations. First is a rather traditional 18k white gold model – a material utilized for the focal holder, the bezel, and the horizontal components. The between drag embeds are made of dark artistic. Coordinating this splendid and specialized look is an iced metal dial that is rhodium-plated and combined with blued hands. This reference FB 1L.1 will be restricted to 10 pieces.
The second form, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L.4, is a more contemporary interpretation of this watch. The case blends a focal compartment and bezel in sandblasted 18k gold, to which sidelong components and between haul embeds in dark ceramized titanium are appended. The dial follows a similar plan, with a dark PVD-covered iced metal base and signs and hands that are rhodium plated – a cold and differentiating shading plan. This reference FB 1L.4 will likewise be restricted to 10 pieces.
Display-wise, we can see a few curiosities. To begin with, the tourbillon isn’t noticeable any longer through the dial. However, the fundamental planning signs (hours, minutes, seconds) are as yet found where they used to be in past models. What’s happening is the expansion of not one but rather two complications identified with the Moon. Furthermore, obviously, those aren’t basic Moon indications.
As probably the best watchmaker of his occasions, Berthoud was important for the French Royal Academy of Sciences and Horologist-Mechanic by arrangement to the King and the Navy. This implies that a portion of his exploration was centered around figurings of longitudes and scopes – counts are done around then gratitude to marine clocks. Together with engineer Jean-Charles de Borda, Berthoud made a few gadgets dependent on the Moon to figure longitudes. In 1752 is created the “Cercle de Borda” or rehashing circle (itself dependent on the underlying thought of Tobias Mayer, the reflecting circle).
The Cercle de Borda estimates rakish distances by rehashing a few times a similar perception on a circle without getting back to nothing. Its characteristic: the more estimations are played out, the more its safety buffer is diminished. The circle of Borda is the basic hyphen which permitted to pass from the octant (with an exactness of 150 nautical miles, or in excess of 270 km) to the sextant (exact with 0,2 miles, or 370 meters). This innovation could decide the situation of the Moon with extraordinary accuracy and, accepted, the longitude. The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L is a recognition for this invention.
This new Ferdinand Berthoud highlights two signs identified with the Moon: one for the age, one for the stage. It in this way combines chronometric accuracy and cosmic estimation. Few may know yet the age and the period of the Moon are two unmistakable estimations. The Moon stage is the most common in watchmaking. This complication outwardly shows the diverse lunar cycles. The Moon stage is separated into four stages: new Moon, first quarter, full Moon and last quarter. The Moon stage is demonstrated on the dial, somewhere in the range of 4 and 5 o’clock. It displays what is the period of the Moon – expanding or diminishing – by pointing a semi-round window wherein a circle is running.
The age of the Moon is a more exact pointer. It checks down the quantity of days since the last new Moon. This will be this sign that permitted estimations of longitudes very nearly 3 centuries prior. This sign is in fact complex, as a direct fragment sends an exact point to a hand that shows the age of the Moon on a curved track, moved on from 1 to 14. This sign is bi-directional, implying that once it arrives at the 14 position, it will gradually return to its unique spot – along these lines demonstrating a rising or plummeting Moon.
The base of the development, notwithstanding, stays as before. The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L highlights the super complex and super definite type FB-T.FC, with its altered one-minute tourbillon with direct seconds display and its fusee-and-chain winding gadget. The development comprises no less than 1,270 sections (counting 790 for the chain and 67 for the tourbillon), all amazingly designed. The development is here introduced in dark rhodium German silver.
The cost of the new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L will be CHF 250,000 for the FB 1L.4 (titanium) and CHF 265,000 for the FB 1L.1 (white gold). More subtleties at www.ferdinandberthoud.ch .