Slim, sophisticated and with just the right hint of complexity, the new Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin is a collector’s fantasy. Recently unveiled at Baselworld 2019 , it’s the first caliber equipped with a flying tourbillon from the Manufacture. Cased up in 100% ethically sourced “Fairmined” gold, it cuts a striking figure on the wrist. We figured out how to get our hands on one and were intrigued by its perfect proportions and undeniable level completing, the latter of which acquired this model the Geneva Seal. Peruse on for a closer look at this attractive timepiece.
When it comes to finding a really nice dress watch, often the challenge is the measurements. There is no shortage of attractive dials but sometimes case size and completing leave a little (or a lot) to be wanted. Thankfully that is most certainly not the case with the new Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin. In fact, I would almost go as far to say that its proportions are close to perfect.
Measuring 40mm in diameter, its ultra-thin case stands just 7.20mm high and sits nice and flat against the wrist. It’s thin enough to slide away comfortably under a shirt cuff but this isn’t a watch that will vanish on the wrist. A long way from it. For a start the rose gold case is simply too attractive for that. Produced using ethically sourced “Fairmined” gold, it displays the undeniable level of completing we’ve become accustomed to with L.U.C models. The polished bezel catches the light nicely, drawing the eye. This effect is amplified by the subtle contrast of vertical satin-brushed completion on the casebands. The lugs are also polished and slope down slightly for a comfortable fit on the wrist.
Moving to the dial now, the significant highlight is, of course, the flying tourbillon visible through a cut-out at six o’clock. I’ll come back to that in just a minute. First though, I want to focus on the other details that make this a great looking watch. As should be obvious, Chopard has opted for a less is more approach. Firstly, the choice to use anthracite dark for the dial instead of a more traditional black or white was a smart one. It gives the watch a bit greater personality and versatility and makes it just that little bit less formal.
Less formal maybe, but no less traditional in its wrapping up. The dial is actually produced using solid gold, with a galvanic treatment used to achieve the dark ruthenium finish. It is then decorated by hand using sophisticated guilloché techniques. A closer inspection is really required to appreciate these better details. The chapter ring bearing the gilded hour markers and numerals – applied and facetted – features an elegant snailed motif. The central territory of the dial meanwhile displays the very distinctive honeycomb motif that was first seen on the 2017 L.U.C XPS Officer edition. According to the brand, the pattern brings out a colony of bees and alludes to the first logo used by founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Like the hour markers, the Dauphine hands are also gilded to match the case metal.
At six o’clock, a large aperture reveals the flying one-minute tourbillon, outlined by a gilded ring matching the case color. It also fills in as a small seconds counter and is indicated with a small white triangle-formed hand. Beautifully executed and tastefully completed, it’s the sort of thing that can be delighted in by the novice or veteran alike.
I don’t want to sound too cliché here – especially with the constant chatter in the industry about attracting millennials to mechanical watches, etc. – but this looks like a very good quality dress watch that will appeal to a younger generation. Yet simultaneously, it won’t alienate more prepared collectors who will appreciate its undeniable level of completing and complex mechanics.
Speaking of complex mechanics, let’s turn our attention now to the movement inside. Called Caliber 96.24-L, it is an automatic movement that has been developed, produced and assembled in L.U.C’s workshops in Geneva. It’s an evolution of Chopard’s original ultra-thin Caliber 96.01-L and maintains similar measurements (27.40mm diameter x 3.30mm thick). As you can find in the photos, it’s also equipped with a 22k gold micro-rotor. The movement offers a 65-hour power hold thanks to Chopard’s patented Twin technology, which uses two stacked barrels.
As expected, completing is to the L.U.C collection’s elevated requirement, with Geneva striping on the extensions. Certified as a chronometer, the movement has also been stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva. Completing the package is a hand-sewn plant-colored matte black alligator leather strap with cognac-colored alligator leather lining. It’s closed by means of a 18k rose gold pin buckle.
The Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin wears comfortably on the wrist and, as I mentioned earlier, is surprisingly versatile. There’s no doubt this is a dressy watch, but you can also wear it a bit more casually. Possibly not with shorts and a t-shirt but definitely with a nice wool-knit sweater and a cotton shirt. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, price is EUR 109,000. More details at www.chopard.com .