Baselworld 2019 has come to an end. As usual, it was a rather pressed occasion, in spite of the peculiar impression brought about by the shortfall of Swatch Group’s brands, and an abnormally high number of brands introducing their watches in various areas around the official ‘Messe’. In the event that the mind-set was acceptable generally, the fate of the show was all the rage with theories in regards to the participation of the LVMH brands, Breitling and a lot more to the following releases of the reasonable. Presently the residue has settled, group MONOCHROME thinks back and picks the most awesome aspect show…
This year there’s a plenty of tourbillons, however we start in sequential order…
Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition
Since Breitling is under new possession, the emphasis was on eliminating numerous old references from the index and presenting two completely new assortments, zeroing in on another (more youthful) demographic. In this light, it was very striking that the brand presented a reissue of its generally sought-after vintage piece, the Breitling Navitimer ref. 806. The new Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition is made so well, so near the first, in size and plan, that there’s a ton to like. Inside ticks a hand-wound and COSC-confirmed variant of Breitling’s own chronograph type, presently named B09. The dial is decorated with the Breitling name in capitals and an unsigned winged logo, similar to the old Navitimer for the EU market.
Quick facts: 41mm x 12.86mm – treated steel – Breitling in-house development type B09 – manual-winding – 70h force save – hours, minutes, little seconds, chronograph – 30m water-obstruction – www.breitling.com
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
Bulgari’s fifth world record and simply like the past four records, granted to an individual from the Octo Finissimo family. Might I venture to say it, the watches in this assortment make the ideal MONOCHROME watches, as their shading plan is totally monochromatic! The new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the world’s most slender programmed chronograph and furthermore comprises a subsequent time region sign! Psyche you, a 3.30mm slender development in a 6.90mm meager case with a crown, two chronograph pushers, one GMT pusher and sapphire gems on the two sides. Magnificent!
Quick realities: 42mm x 6.90mm – sandblasted titanium case – water-impervious to 30m – Bulgari in-house calibre BVL 318 – programmed with fringe rotor – 55h force hold – segment haggle grasp – autonomous second time region show – CHF 16,500 – www.bulgari.com
Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual
This exquisite chronograph is enlivened by a Bucherer Chronograph from the 1950s. Its vintage great looks are underscored by a sapphire box glass, a bi-compax dial outlined by a tachymeter and needle style hands. The programmed development with a Dubois Depraz module combines a chronograph and a yearly schedule (requiring close to one revision each year). Cost is set at CHF 6,900 in steel. The Production is restricted to 888 pieces in both steel and in steel and gold.
Quick facts: 41 mm steel (or gold and steel) case – water-impervious to 30m – programmed type with hours, minutes, seconds, yearly schedule and chronograph – leather or elastic lash with collapsing catch – CHF 6,900 – Limited Edition of 888 – www.carl-f-bucherer.com
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin
Chopard’s first flying tourbillon is especially rich and wonderfully made. Inside the thin 40mm case is the COSC-confirmed programmed type 96.24-L. This miniature rotor development is simply 3.3 mm thick and its two stacked barrels can save to 65 hours of force save. It is carefully completed to the norms of the ‘Poinçon de Genève’. The middle piece of its ruthenium covered gold dial is decorated with a honeycomb hand-guilloché design. The Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin is a restricted release of 50 pieces in morally ensured Fairmined pink gold.
Quick facts: 40mm measurement x 7.20mm thickness – 18k ‘Fairmined’ rose gold – programmed type L.U.C 96.24-L – 25,200vph (3.5Hz) – 65h force save – COSC chronometer-ensured – Geneva Seal quality trademark – hours, minutes and one-minute flying tourbillon – EUR 109,000 – 50 piece restricted release – for more data, visit www.chopard.com
Greubel-Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon GMT
Bringing together two of the brand’s most striking manifestations into one piece is the Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon GMT, a more than noteworthy watch. The three-dimensional engineering of the manual-winding type comprises 705 sections, including three quick pivoting barrels, two twofold tourbillons, and a marvelous Earth moving. At CHF 780.000 the sticker price is galactic yet as is standard with Greubel Forsey, we are looking at a degree of watchmaking and completing that is essentially second to none.
Quick facts: 46.5 mm white gold case – water-impervious to 30m – hand-twisted type with hours, minutes, little seconds, power hold sign, GMT, pivoting globe with general time and day/night, fourfold tourbillon – crocodile lash with collapsing fasten – CHF 780,000 – Limited release of 66 pieces (11 in white gold) – for more data, visit www.greubelforsey.com
Grönefeld Decennium Tourbillon
Grönefeld… a little Dutch watchmaking company with a long history, is as of now drove by two brothers, nicknamed the Horological Brothers. Bart and Tim Grönefeld began making watches with the name Grönefeld on the dial in 2009 and to commend their first decade they dispatch a 10-piece restricted release of an exquisite tourbillon. Named appropriately, Decennium Tourbillon, it comes in the rich 1941 case that was presented with the dispatch of their Remontoire. The Horological Brothers are notable among gatherers for the utilization of perfectly formed hardened steel spans and the radiant degree of wrapping up. Never bashful to add a fantastic complication, they’ve acquired their place among the greats in watchmaking.
Quick facts: 39.5mm x 10.5mm platinum case – water-impervious to 30m – programmed type with hours, minutes and a one-minute tourbillon – tempered steel spans – in-house created development – croc tie with collapsing catch – EUR 145,000 – Limited Edition of 10 pieces – for more data visit www.gronefeld.com
Montres-KF Spirograph Sport
Montres-KF is the brand of German watchmaker Karsten Fräßdorf. His work has consistently shown a solid spotlight on exemplary chronometric difficulties and his most recent creation, the Spirograph Sport, is no special case. With the dispatch of the Spirograph, which we inspected a year ago, he made a huge tourbillon wristwatch with an amazingly solid latency (something helpful to a solid chronometric execution) made by his self-created escapement. The new Spirograph Sport includes practically a similar development, in any case, it presently comes with an assistant thermo-compensating balance. Presently that’s something the universe of watches hasn’t found in 50 years and we’re overly eager to see that ace watchmaker Karsten Fräßdorf pulled it off to grandstand a particularly significant improvement to the balance.
Quick facts: 45mm x 13.4mm steel case – water-impervious to 30m – hand-twisted in-house created and produced development with hours, minutes and a one-minute tourbillon – twofold bended free-sprung hairspring – in-house created escapement with temperature compensating balance – 5000 G stun ensured development with unique securing gadgets for the dial, fundamental plate and winding stem – crocodile lash with collapsing fasten – CHF 95,000 – Limited Edition of 10 pieces – www.montres-kf.com
H. Moser and Cie. Attempt Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon
Devoid of any logo or markers, the H. Moser Endeavor Concept minute repeater Tourbillon centers around the basics. A Minute Repeater and a Tourbillon pressed into one watch. The tolling portions of the moment repeater, the mallets, and gongs are shown on the dial accompanied by the flying tourbillon and the hour and moment hands. Nothing else and it’s just eminent. This ordinary H. Moser & Cie. is housed inside a 43mm white gold case.
Quick facts: 43 mm white gold case – water-impervious to 30m – hand-twisted type with hours, minutes, minute repeater and tourbillon – croc lash with collapsing fasten – Price CHF 320,000 – www.h-moser.com
Hautlence HL Sphere 01
With its freshest creation, Hautlence returns to its underlying foundations. The brand established 15 years prior, in 2004, with a TV-screen case including a hopping hour show and retrograde moment hand. This has become the brand’s famous and extraordinary time show and subsequent to being off track for quite a while, the La Chaux-de-Fonds based brand appears to have discovered its way back to its beginnings. Albeit the ‘usual’ hopping hour show has now been supplanted by a novel hours show, with a turning circle pivoting on three tomahawks, the retrograde moment hand stays in place.
Quick facts: 39mm x 46mm x 12mm – 18k white gold case – hand-wound mechanical development HTL 501-1 – 3 days power hold – round bouncing hours, retrograde minutes on 180° curve – CHF 99,000 – www.hautlence.com
Patek Philippe 5172G
The revered Patek 5170 has a replacement. The most recent model in the brand’s ancestry of hand-wound chronographs is introduced in white gold and it is eminently executed. Its case stands apart with a sapphire box precious stone, round guilloché pushers and ventured drags. Its blue stained dial is matched with needle hands. Like the 5170, it is as yet fueled by the type CH 29-535, which means a customary hand-wound coordinated chronograph with segment wheel, level grip and quick hopping minutes.
Quick facts: 41 mm white gold case – water-impervious to 30m – hand-twisted type with hours, minutes, little seconds, chronograph with quick minutes – croc lash with collapsing catch – CHF 65,000 – www.patek.com
Porsche Design 1919 Globetimer UTC
For the most recent few years Porsche Design, the brand liable for infusing a much needed refresher in the watchmaking business in the 1970’s and 1980’s, is taking things into its own hands. Under the new responsibility for, it is setting up the workshop in Solothurn, Switzerland, and applies a similar methodology of in the nick of time creation as utilized in the vehicle business. For Baselworld 2019, Porsche Design proposes another emphasis of its Globetimer and it did everything right! The new 1919 Globetimer UTC is a flexible and reasonable traveller’s watch that shows the time in two distinctive time regions, and it’s even exceptionally simple to switch the neighborhood time when you’re going without compromising the timekeeping and the home time sign. It will be accessible in titanium or 18k rose gold, on Porsche sports vehicle leather lash or titanium arm band; how befitting!
Quick facts: 42mm x 14.90mm titanium case – 100m water-safe – Porsche Design Caliber WERK 04.110 – COSC chronometer-confirmed – 38h force save – hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, 24h showcase, day/night sign – titanium wristband or certified Porsche sports vehicle leather tie with twofold collapsing fasten – value begins at EUR 5,950 – www.porsche-design.com
Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033
In the previous years, Seiko has satisfied numerous enthusiasts of the brand with a pleasant line-up of vintage reissues. This year the reissue story proceeds with a renowned 1970 jump watch, the 6105-8110, which is presently accessible as the Seiko Limited Edition SLA033. This f
Quick realities: 45mm x 13mm – tempered steel case – screw-down crown at 4 o’clock – attractive opposition 4,800 A/m – water-obstruction 200m – Seiko type 8L35 – programmed – 50h force hold – hours, minutes, seconds, date – Limited Edition of 2,500 pieces – EUR 4,350 –
Zenith Defy Inventor
Presenting models of another oscillator or escapement is a certain something. Taking it from idea to showcase is very another… With the Defy Inventor, Zenith makes the progression into sequential creation of perhaps the most imaginative horological ideas of the previous years, its progressive oscillator disclosed in 2017. With it a solitary silicon adaptable oscillator, vibrating at 18Hz, this component replaces the 30 sections or so of a standard controller. The shortfall of mechanical coupling dispenses with contact, rubbing, wear, oil, and scatterings. This creative development is introduced in a 44mm titanium case with an aluminum composite bezel called aeronith.
Quick facts: 44 mm titanium/aeronith case – water-impervious to 50m – programmed type with hours, minutes, seconds – crocodile lash with collapsing catch – CHF 17’900 – www.zenith-watches.com
Tudor Black Bay P01 – Special mention
Taste is abstract and the P01 is certainly not a watch for everyone. A larger part of the MONOCHROME group didn’t care for the watch. Be that as it may, the P01 was without question perhaps the most discussed watches of Baselworld 2019, if not the most discussed – and merited an exceptional notice. As indicated by Tudor, its plan is enlivened by a model proposed to the US Navy during the 1960s. Its 42mm steel case is stretched out by long carries and incorporates a 4 o’clock crown and a turning bezel with blocking framework. Inside is the COSC-affirmed programmed MT5612 type. The lash is leather sewed onto rubber.
Quick facts: 42 mm steel case – water-impervious to 200m – programmed in-house type with hours, minutes, seconds and date – half breed leather and elastic lash with collapsing catch – CHF 3,750 – www.tudorwatch.com