One of the huge shocks of the 2018 edition of the SIHH came from Baume & Mercier with its new Baumatic collection. On the off chance that you need to invigorate your memory, the Baumatics were outfitted with another type – called BM12-1975A – made by ValFleurier, a production line that additionally belongs to the Richemont Group. We previously inspected the non-COSC version here , just as the ensured model , with live pics, obviously. At the SIHH 2019, B&M introduced the primary complication of the watch: a perpetual calendar with a red gold suit to boot.
Let me say that I’ve generally discovered the Clifton an incredible item for Baume & Mercier. The correct blend of contemporary looks and a wide assortment of complications to satisfy both the individuals who need their first “great watch” at a moderately reasonable cost, just as the individuals who like somewhat more things occurring on their wrist yet without giving their first kid in exchange.
After the underlying achievement, the quickly advancing industry began to offer better items at better costs and the Clifton began to lose contentions to convince watch aficionados. It turned out to be excessively costly for the normal consumer, more pulled in by standard brands.
This changed with the introduction of the Clifton Baumatic on the grounds that the type offered numerous specialized focuses that positioned it as a ground-breaking contender in that association of watches, and even above it. The new Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar , introduced at the SIHH 2019, needs to consolidate that point, offering a high complication in a gold case, with a value well beneath some other offering on the market.
In reality, there had been a Clifton Perpetual Calendar previously, in 2017, however to be honest that sounded more like an advertising ploy since we never saw it live. The story is diverse for this new version; rather than purchasing a development from the market (Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier in 2017), B&M is utilizing the Baumatic development, upon which a perpetual calendar module has been added. This makes for an intelligible line of items, a fundamental guideline for a decent brand. Furthermore, from a corporate perspective, it additionally bodes well since it creates interior production, without offering money to outside gatherings. Preferably, that ought to cut the cost down, however it hasn’t. Nevertheless, we can’t disregard the way that the new type is definitely more proficient than the one utilized previously.
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar comes in a red gold case with a distance across of 42mm and a stature of 12.1mm. As a result of its size – particularly the tallness – it’s anything but a canonical dress watch, however the Clifton collection never proposed to be that. There is a less proper air about them, absolutely more remarkable than their Classima brothers. All things considered, it sits on the wrist nicely.
The dial of the watch has been changed to make it more rich; the traditional Clifton Arabic numerals have been subbed with applied, facetted lists. The alleviation on the sub-dials has additionally been wiped out to acquire a softer, smoother surface. At last, the moon stage circle has been advanced with more surface. On the drawback, we can peruse the Baumatic name under the name of the company, which as I would like to think over enhances the south section of the dial.
The focal seconds hand of the first Baumatic type is likewise included on this version. Which is acceptable in light of the fact that perpetual calendars without a seconds hand have a great deal of information accessible, yet are static to such an extent that they lose part of the characteristic joy of everything mechanical: to see things moving, working.
Another distinction from the old version is the veneer of the dial, applied in an off-white shading that causes the watch to show up extremely harmonious and rich. It feels warm and fragile and is suggestive of porcelain, ideal for a high complication. The red gold contrasts pleasantly with the dial, upgraded by the blued hand used to flag all the calendar data.
To show the hours, minutes and seconds B&M has kept the Alpha-style hands – facetted and plated – and the different of 5 numbers to underline the possibility of precision and give it a slight energetic touch.
Baumatic Caliber BM13-1975AC-1
The type keeps up all the qualities of the Baumatics: silicon balance, 5-day power save, against attraction (up to 1,500 gauss, all that anyone could need for regular day to day existence), chronometric precision (- 5/+6 seconds) and toughness (administration required only like clockwork). On account of the sapphire precious stone we can see the decoration of the type, with perlage and snailing on plates and scaffolds. The rotor is overlaid as well, however at this degree of value, we would value somewhat less of that mechanical look.
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar has a cost of EUR 22,000. For that money, you won’t locate a perpetual calendar in red gold at any of your standard suspects. There is the Frederique Constant option , which is the most open production perpetual calendar, however the case is gold-plated and the dial isn’t half as rich. As I would like to think, the strongest competitor can be found inside the Richemont Group: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Thin Perpetual – in steel, mind you – with a cost of EUR 20,600, however with a production development and the JLC hand finishes.
Making a Baumatic perpetual in gold is a smart thought when you need a watch with sufficient assurance to lead a collection in the advertising war, yet if B&M somehow happened to dispatch it in steel, with say an EUR 7,000 or 8,000 reduction in value, presently that would unquestionably be da bomb. Let’s trust so. More information at Baume&Mercier.com .