Hand-made… these two words are again and again abused in the realm of watches, however not so when talking about Beat Haldimann as we as of late did , or when talking about Atelier de Chronometrie. The last mentioned, a little independent watch brand from Barcelona, reconstructs or resuscitates vintage Omegas, totally by hand. Roughly a year prior, our overseeing manager Brice Goulard expounded on Atelier de Chronometrie and its (around then) most recent creation, the AdC #5 . Today we’re taking a gander at two correspondingly hand-made, modified watches dependent on vintage Omega wristwatches from the 1950s, named AdC #1 and AdC #2.
Last year I was in Barcelona and I had a couple of hours in the middle of gatherings. Since I’d found out about the brand, I connected with Atelier de Chronometrie and fortunately they had the opportunity to see me. Meeting with Santiago Martinez and Montse Gimeno of the brand, a couple living and working in midtown Barcelona, was an immense joy. Santiago is the brand’s innovative chief and deals with client relations, his accomplice Montse is AdC’s overseeing chief and furthermore deals with communication. The center of AdC really comprises a third individual, Moebius Rassman, who is ace watchmaker and specialized head of AdC. They cooperate with a few providers who, for example, produce a portion of the development parts. Key altogether this, is that each Atelier de Chronometrie watch is hand-made in a conventional manner, without the utilization of CNC machines. Here’s a screen capture of the Atelier de Chronometrie group on their website… the hands say it all.
Atelier de Chronometrie AdC #1 and #2
As every one of their watches, the AdC#1 and AdC #2, have been reconstructed dependent on a vintage Omega; in these cases, the bases were separately Omega types 266 and 283. The two developments are supposed 13-lignes developments. ‘Ligne’ is an old French estimation unit, and changed over to millimeters, those 13 lignes equivalent approx. 30 millimeter (which is very enormous for vintage developments from the mid-20th century.) This additionally clarifies why the previously mentioned Omega types are variations of the pined for Omega 30T2 types, moderately huge, durable, solid and exact developments. While the two developments measure approx. 30mm in breadth, the stature is extraordinary. For type 266, in the AdC #1, the tallness is 4mm and for the type 283 in the AdC #2 the stature is 5.65mm. The basic purpose behind this lies in the way that extra haggles connect are needed for this development to include a focal seconds hand, and this adds approx. 1.5mm in height.
So first of all, an old Omega development is dismantled and all parts are cleaned. Depending on the base development, either three (cal.266) or four (cal. 283) spans are made of Arcap, which will be 18k rose gold (or rhodium-plated). For type 266, 23 new parts are completely hand-made, without the utilization of CNC processing machines. For type 283 there are no under 35 new hand-made parts. All the old parts that will be reused, are cleaned and completely changed and decorated by hand, utilizing distinctive instruments and techniques. Essentially not one piece of the old development will be reused without A) being supplanted by a recently made part or B) being completely stripped and restored and decorated by hand. This implies conventional icing, angling, cleaning, perlage and even dark clean on some level surfaces, and the principle plate will be enhanced with côtes roundabout. That’s a serious deal, as this is the way watchmaking “used to be” and shockingly it is rather uncommon these days.
Every time you need another wheel, you start from scratch….
Making another wheel from scratch… The wheel….
The spans on each Atelier de Chronometrie are exceptional and are cut by hand; the openings for gems, pinions, and screws, must be penetrated by hand; angling, cleaning, other completing and decorations are applied by hand; lastly covered (18k gold or rhodium). Obviously, the gems must be squeezed in, and any remaining parts should be fit and secured.
Sawing an extension Two of the four bridges… work in advancement Finishing a scaffold Almost done… in any event the scaffolds. Next are wheels, pinions, spring, and a lot more parts
I surmise that these pictures show quite well why a watch made by Atelier de Chronometrie will come at a cost. Making a watch by hand requires some serious energy, a ton of time, and the individual doing it must have a great deal of involvement and should be exceptionally talented. Atelier de Chronometrie doesn’t design its own developments, as previously mentioned Beat Haldimann (or Roger Smith or Philippe Dufour ), notwithstanding, and this is a significant factor, the conventional watchmaker’s work is as yet done by hand in the traditional way.
The base developments utilized by AdC are referred to for chronometer characteristics and are accordingly, an awesome beginning stage. AdC’s own titanium balance wheel (hand-made) is enlivened by the old pocket watches and its six “masselottes” are handmade in 18k rose gold. The get away from wheel is inclined and cleaned by hand, tooth by tooth. The fastener wheel is additionally cleaned and cleaned to meet with AdC’s standards.
Hand sloping the departure wheel, tooth by tooth… The fastener wheel, previously, then after the fact.
While there are likely a couple of AdC pieces completed, possibly three or four, these basically fill in as exhibits for what the brand is prepared to do. At the point when you need to buy an Atelier de Chronometrie watch, you will pick the development, the design and completing of the extensions, the design of the dial, hands, case, hauls, and the sky is the limit from there. Having the option to have such a lot of say in your future watch is the genuine definition of extravagance that goes a long ways past a lofty name on the dial. You can even choiose to have your watch tried and ensured by the Besançon Observatory!
I’ve picked to show the AdC #1 and AdC #2 in light of the fact that these show a huge improvement. Various dials, focal seconds hand versus a little off-focus seconds hand, distinctive case materials and sizes (18k white gold or red gold, 37.5mm or 40mm) and the diverse development completes, connect designs, and so on A cost of approx. 40,000 EUR for a round gold watch with 3 hands isn’t modest, notwithstanding, when you consider the measure of time, inventiveness, gifted work and decision for the client, it’s really unparalleled.
More data on the Atelier de Chronometrie site and try to follow them on Instagram here .