When Vacheron Constantin declared the presentation of another assortment, the FiftySix , only in front of the SIHH 2018, we were (believe it or not) rather distrustful. I can review conversations with Frank about the plan, the manner in which the brand communicated the model, the “entry-level” approach or the millennial target. Be that as it may, as they say, initial introductions can be wrong… So we chose to give this Vacheron Constantin FiftySix another opportunity, yet this time by wearing it. Furthermore, for that, we picked the most complex (and generally engaging) form, the Complete Calendar.
Why were we doubtful about the VC FiftySix?
Being writers – or possibly, individuals who run a magazine – we as a rule get visuals and public statements about new models ahead of time. Along these lines, we have the opportunity to plan articles so you can appreciate finding out about curiosities right when they are officially dispatched. This was the situation with the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix, which we found a couple of days before the SIHH 2018. However, what we found were just some press photographs (so-called soldat pictures or 3D renderings – see beneath) that often don’t offer credit to the watches themselves. No feeling of extents, no profundity, no reflections… Such pictures are made for reflexive paper and don’t help trasnmit a target assessment on the watches.
When we saw the pictures of the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix interestingly, Frank and I turned out to be incredulous without a doubt. The watches looked plain level and didn’t show the standard style of a VC watch. Surely, we saw a somewhat unordinary shape, yet we missed the extents and measurements of this watch on the wrist. Same went for the dials, which showed up too monochromatic and lacking that genuine VC inventiveness – by and by, on photographs. This is the place where a test on the wrist bodes well – and for us as well as for you when you need to put resources into another watch. Press pictures can be truly deceptive.
The second purpose of conversation was about the actual system. Dispatched in steel, the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix was obviously expected to be a “entry-level” choice for the brand. Therefore, the less complex model, the Automatic, is outfitted with a development created by ValFleurier and dependent on a Cartier ébauche – despite the fact that it highlights explicit scaffolds and a significantly more point by point design. No Hallmark of Geneva here and a sticker price of EUR 10,000 preceding charges. Be that as it may, looking at the Complete Calendar and the Day-Date adaptations, costs went up to EUR 20,000 in steel – and over EUR 30,000 in gold. Not what we would name as a “entry-level” observe any longer. Once more, this was without having contacted and felt the watches and comprehended that they were more subjective than we thought.
Why wearing the watch changed our minds?
So what has changed since our early introduction? All things considered, so, we’ve been wearing the watches seriously. Also, trust us, that makes a huge difference. A watch is something that you have with you consistently, the entire day. It’s like some pants. It can glance great in a store’s feature and be a genuine agony once worn. A watch is something that should be on the wrist to uncovers its excellence or its imperfections. It lives, it plays with the light and it’s about extents – and not about the measurements imprinted on a detail sheet.
This is the place where the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix demonstrated an extraordinary astonishment. At the point when we initially saw the watches in the metal, the excellence of the case and the style of its extents quickly appeared well and good. Absolutely, it isn’t a super slim watch and the case could be somewhat more slender. Be that as it may, it is significantly more wonderful on the wrist than when found in a showcase window or in the pages of a shiny air terminal magazine.
The case shows up more compact, more adjusted and mostly, substantially more propelled in the metal, when surrounding light and reflections show up on its cleaned surfaces. The surfaces, some curved, some sunken, the points, the combination of round shapes and straight lines, make a circumspectly unique plan. An exercise for us all: ALWAYS give watches a shot the wrist before you even consider getting them – or before you need to compose an assessment arranged article.
The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar in detail
When I initially expounded on this new model , this is the thing that I said as a presentation “The new Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX is intended to draw in new watch aficionados. We mean more youthful, less blessed and possibly less bad-to-the-bone authorities. To arrive at that gathering of clients, VC dealt with both a more contemporary plan, yet still very Vacheron by and large, just as making an all around situated offer cost wise.” Not that I have altogether altered my perspective since, yet I need to subtlety these words a piece since Frank and I have worn the watch.
This position is valid for one model just, the Steel Automatic form. The two other models, the Day-Date and the Complete Calendar we’re looking at today, are considerably more VC-situated. The fastidiously completed development, gold (or steel) cases and customary complication/show are especially in accordance with Vacheron’s exemplary plan. In any case, the facts confirm that the plan, combining inventiveness, tastefulness and a slight vintage feel will absolutely converse with potential new clients.
The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar is, clearly, a reasonable watch on the wrist. This adaptation, with its more complex triple/complete calendar complication, has a somewhat thicker case. Be that as it may, on the opposite of my opinion, this relative thickness – 11.60mm, not particularly thick either – fits the state of the case and makes it lovely to look and wear. The drags are short, implying that it sits well on most wrists. At last, the state of this watch, a blend between a round and a tonneau watch, has the right to be somewhat present on the wrist. I know, it is very difficult to clarify with words yet I had the inclination that this watch was very well proportioned.
As for the dial, the equivalent can be said. While it showed up very plain and level on the official photographs, the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix, particularly this Complete Calendar variant, is significantly more perky in genuine light. The decision of a “sector” or “two-tone” dial is rather dans l’air du temps however functions admirably with the general plan and 1950s motivation. Not exclusively is the dial very much fragmented, with a few territories delimiting the various signs, yet it likewise includes diverse finishes.
As you can see, the date ring has concentric furrows, the hour ring highlights a metallic sunray brushed example close by profoundly raised numerals and lists, and the focal area, which contains the calendar sign and the moon stage, is opaline wrapped up. One distinction between the gold and steel models is the shade of the dial. The gold rendition is gleaming white and in this way more old style. The steel version is metallic dim, for a more easygoing, marginally hazier look.
As for the development, Vacheron Constantin has an alternate procedure here than with the easier 3-hand model. No rethought development here except for an in-house, Hallmark of Geneva-affirmed programmed type. Albeit the two watches may be in a similar assortment, they don’t play comparable. Once more, I was very shocked, from the outset, by this decision. Subsequent to thinking about it, I think I comprehend the purposes for this strategy.
Such a watch, with a complete calendar, will stay more restrictive than the 3-hander and in this manner, will focus on an alternate crowd – more customary, more used to complicated watches or even gatherers that are now customers of the brand. Having a pleasantly executed assembling type in this setting bodes well than with the 3-hand adaptation, which has been made to draw in new customers.
In a similar vein, VC settled on the decision of a programmed development, rather than the hand-wound base type found in the Historiques 1948 – what has a similar calendar module. The FiftySix is more youthful, more easygoing and more “urban”. A programmed development bodes well in this unique situation. With respect to the actual development, it is the notable and wonderfully completed calibre 2460. The view through the sapphire caseback, with perfectly finished scaffolds and an openworked gold rotor, is lovely. My lone complaint about this development is the length of the force save – just 40 hours.
The articulation “don’t judge on first impressions” bodes well with this Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar. While we were rather extreme with VC when it introduced the watch, I sincerely figure the brand improved occupation than I envisioned. Having the opportunity to wear this watch and play with it for a couple of days – and share my impressions with Frank, who additionally wore it – the FiftySix is a decent and roused watch, charmingly planned, proportional and greatly completed – at any rate, this Complete Calendar variant. More elite and more develop than the 3-hander form, its cost is, obviously, as needs be higher: EUR 22,600 in steel and EUR 35,300 in 18k rose gold. Not a modest watch without a doubt, but rather not an economically executed piece either. More subtleties on www.vacheron-constantin.com .