Visiting the Romain Gauthier make is an enlightening encounter. One of the best agents of the Vallée-de-Joux skill, this autonomous watchmaker creates a little more than 50 pieces every year with an extraordinary degree of completing and an uncompromising watchmaking ethos. To exhibit this, we investigate the super itemized and complex Romain Gauthier Logical One.
Indeed, it comes as nothing unexpected to anyone acquainted with crafted by Romain Gauthier to see detail-fixated experts at work there. In any case, the company’s mastery works out positively past this. An enormous piece of his action, less known however really noteworthy, is centered around delivering development components – both for Romain Gauthier (the brand), yet in addition for outsiders. The expertise and best in class machine park are noteworthy, clarified by the creation of exceptionally complex parts sourced by the absolute most lofty names in the industry.
(Editor’s note: Romain Gauthier was formerly working for François Golay, a company specialized in mechanical watch components, including great wheels – the company was subsequently consumed by Frédéric Piguet SA, part of the Swatch Group).
Among the brand’s manifestations, the Logical One holds a unique spot. This watch includes a one of a kind steady power system. Steady power is a chalice of watchmaking and chronometry. The reducing main thrust conveyed to the oscillator of watches influences their rate – balance wheels are not completely isochronous and the diminishing force adversely affects accuracy.
Invented during the 15th century, the fusée-and-chain instrument is one of the most punctual answers for convey steady power to the directing organ of a watch. A fusée comprises of a cone-molded pulley, connected to a chain curled around the barrel. The fusée highlights a winding string to get the chain. Because of the expanding periphery of the string, the lessening power of the heart is compensated (a lot of like the equipping of a bike). As the heart loosens up, the chain moves on the barrel and off the fusée. The expanding influence of the fusée compensates for the melting away force of the barrel.
The Romain Gauthier Logical One highlights a cutting edge reevaluation of the fusée-and-chain, gladly uncovered on the dial side of the watch. A lethargic turning snail cam replaces the fusée and takes into account the transmission of power in an orderly fashion, without twist of the chain whose connections include low-grinding, hard-wearing synthetic rubies. To dispose of lopsided erosion, the barrel pivots in the middle of synthetic sapphire plates.
With a 35.5mm width, the hand-wound development is created and fabricated altogether in-house, including the directing organ (trimming the hairspring, sticking up the collet, balancing the equilibrium – and a one of a kind three-sided bed for most extreme inflexibility). The development design is brilliant with a great deal of visual profundity and liquid bends for the scaffolds. Working at 28,000vph, it can save to 46 hours of force hold – which may appear to be rather low. Notwithstanding, a 46-hour power hold is very decent for a fusée-and-chain development. It comprises 359 components, including 63 gems (26 for the chain).
The brilliant completing of the development highlights snailing, icing, straight graining and roundabout graining. The most noteworthy part: the slants have an adjusted profile (bercé for those anxious to fabricate their French watchmaking jargon) rather than the level surface seen on a large portion of the watches. This is madly hard to accomplish as the bend should be amazing along the entire state of the scaffolds. This sort of finish is performed by a modest bunch of craftsmen.
The inclines are calmly hand-made and hand-cleaned. Their surface is carefully cleaned to acquire a uniform radiance without even the smallest blemish. This is performed first with a record to shape the slope, then with a wooden stake. The last brilliance is gotten utilizing gentian finishing wood that Romain Gauthier gathers himself in the Vallée-de-Joux. The gem breaks are treated with a similar consideration. The origin barrel connect alone requires almost 3 months to get it from a crude piece of metal into its completed state. In the trademark Romain Gauthier style, the wheels include roundabout spokes and the screw heads come with a S-opening. Generally speaking, more than 90 hours of hand-completing are spent on the movement.
The development is housed in a 43mm round platinum case – despite the fact that variations are accessible in gold or in titanium. The crown at 2 o’clock considers time setting, while the first pusher set into the case band at 9 o’clock considers winding. The dial is darkened metal with a Clous de Paris guilloché theme combined with 18k gold openwork hands. The last touch is set with an eminent hand-sewed crocodile lash with a pin buckle.
The Logical One was granted the prize for Best Men’s Complication watch at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The cost for the watch begins at CHF 108,000 for the titanium version with a “Clous de Paris” dial. The platinum variant checked on here retails for CHF 145,000. For more data, www.romaingauthier.com .